Krita for Beginners: Highlights, Rim Light, and Material Cues

Capítulo 9

Estimated reading time: 8 minutes

+ Exercise

What highlights actually do (beyond “making it shiny”)

Shadows describe form by removing light; highlights describe form by showing how light arrives and how a surface responds. A highlight is not just a lighter version of the base color—it is a combination of:

  • Light direction (where the brightest area sits on the form)
  • Light size and softness (hard edge vs. soft bloom)
  • Surface response (diffuse vs. specular)
  • Material cues (skin, fabric, metal, plastic each “announce” themselves through highlight behavior)

Two key terms:

  • Diffuse response: light scatters in many directions. It creates broad, gentle light areas and color stays closer to the local (base) color.
  • Specular response: light reflects more directly. It creates tighter, brighter highlights that can shift toward the light color and can approach near-white on glossy surfaces.

Highlight placement: the “where”

On a simple sphere under a single light, the highlight sits on the side facing the light, slightly offset from the brightest diffuse area. On complex forms (faces, folds, props), think in planes: highlights appear on planes angled toward the light and disappear quickly when the plane turns away.

Highlight intensity: the “how bright”

Intensity depends on (1) material gloss, (2) light strength, and (3) exposure of your painting. A common beginner mistake is making every highlight equally bright. Instead, choose a hierarchy:

  • Primary highlight: the brightest, smallest, most attention-grabbing (usually on the focal area).
  • Secondary highlights: dimmer and/or softer, supporting the form.
  • Ambient sheen: very subtle, broad lift—often barely visible at thumbnail size.

Keeping highlights cohesive (so they don’t look pasted on)

Highlights look cohesive when they share consistent logic:

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  • Same light direction: all highlights “point” to the same source.
  • Same light color: even across different materials, the light tint should feel related (warmer sunlight vs. cooler indoor light).
  • Consistent edge language: glossy objects get sharper edges; matte objects get softer edges.
  • Consistent value ceiling: decide how close to white your scene goes. If everything hits pure white, nothing feels special.

A practical check: temporarily add a neutral gray layer on top set to Color blending mode (or use a filter layer) to view values without hue distraction. If highlights are randomly bright, you’ll see it immediately.

Layer modes for lights (and when to use them)

Use a dedicated highlight layer (or a small stack of highlight layers) so you can adjust intensity without repainting. Common blending modes:

  • Screen: gentle brightening; good default for soft highlights and broad light passes.
  • Add (Linear Dodge): stronger, more “light-emitting” feel; good for small, intense specular hits and rim light accents.
  • Color Dodge: very punchy and can shift saturation quickly; use sparingly for tiny sparkle points or very glossy materials.

Restraint rule: start with Screen at a low opacity, then only escalate to Add or Color Dodge for the smallest, brightest accents. If you begin with Color Dodge everywhere, you’ll fight blown-out values and neon color shifts.

Recommended highlight layer setup

  • Layer 1: “Highlights – Soft” set to Screen, opacity ~10–40%.
  • Layer 2: “Highlights – Specular” set to Add (Linear Dodge), opacity ~5–25%.
  • Optional Layer 3: “Sparkle” set to Color Dodge, opacity ~2–10% (tiny brush only).

Keep these layers clipped to your painted forms (or placed inside the same group with an existing mask) so highlights don’t spill outside the silhouette.

Step-by-step: adding highlights in a controlled, believable way

Step 1 — Create a separate highlight layer

  • Add a new layer above your shading/painting layers.
  • Name it clearly (e.g., Highlights – Soft).
  • Set blending mode to Screen.
  • Clip it to the object/character (or place it inside a masked group) so you can paint freely.

Step 2 — Choose a highlight color (don’t default to pure white)

Pick a color that is:

  • Lighter in value than the local color
  • Slightly shifted toward the light color (warmer light → warmer highlight; cool light → cooler highlight)
  • Often a bit less saturated than you expect for matte surfaces (but can be more saturated for certain plastics or strong colored lights)

Quick guideline: for matte materials, highlights are usually “lighter + slightly warmer/cooler.” For glossy materials, the brightest specular can approach the light’s color more than the object’s color.

Step 3 — Block the highlight shapes by plane

  • Use a medium-soft brush to place broad highlight areas on planes facing the light.
  • Think “bands” on cylinders, “patches” on cheeks/foreheads, and “ridges” on folds.
  • Avoid outlining forms with highlights; place them where the surface turns toward the light.

Step 4 — Add specular accents (only where the material supports it)

  • Create or switch to Highlights – Specular on Add (Linear Dodge).
  • Use a smaller brush and sharper edges.
  • Place specular hits on the most reflective areas: tip of the nose, lower lip gloss, polished metal edges, shiny plastic corners.

Step 5 — Test visibility at thumbnail size

Highlights should read even when small, but not turn into noisy glitter. Do this:

  • Zoom out until the canvas is thumbnail-sized on your screen.
  • Ask: Do the highlights clarify the light direction and focal point?
  • If highlights become distracting specks, reduce detail or soften edges.

Optional workflow trick: use the Navigator docker or create a temporary “thumbnail” view by zooming out and panning; avoid repainting at tiny size—just evaluate.

Step 6 — Adjust saturation/value for believable light

Instead of repainting, adjust the highlight layer:

  • Lower opacity first (fastest fix).
  • If color feels off, use a non-destructive adjustment method (e.g., a filter mask on the highlight layer) to nudge Hue/Saturation or Value.
  • If highlights look chalky, slightly increase saturation or shift hue toward the light color.
  • If highlights look neon, reduce saturation and/or switch from Add to Screen.

Rim light: a special highlight with a clear job

Rim light is a thin highlight on the edge of a form, usually caused by a back light. It helps separate the subject from the background and can add drama, but it must still obey material rules.

Rim light placement

  • Place it on the silhouette edge facing the back light.
  • Keep thickness consistent with distance and softness of the light (sharp spotlight → thin crisp rim; large soft light → thicker softer rim).
  • Break it where the form turns away or is occluded (don’t trace the entire outline).

Rim light layer suggestion

Use a separate layer set to Screen for soft rim, and add tiny Add accents only on the most reflective materials (metal/plastic).

Simple material cues: how to paint highlights that “say” skin, fabric, metal, plastic

Skin (semi-matte with soft specular)

  • Diffuse: broad, soft highlight transitions on cheeks, forehead, shoulders.
  • Specular: small but not razor-sharp; often on nose bridge/tip, lower lip, eyelids.
  • Color: highlights often shift slightly warm (even under neutral light) because of subsurface scattering; avoid pure white except for very wet areas.

Practical cue: keep most skin highlights on Screen, and reserve Add for tiny moist spots (lip gloss, tear line).

Fabric (mostly diffuse, broken highlights)

  • Diffuse: soft, wide highlights that follow folds.
  • Specular: usually minimal; exceptions are satin/silk (then highlights become longer, brighter streaks).
  • Shape: highlights often appear as interrupted patches because fabric micro-folds break the reflection.

Practical cue: use textured brushes lightly or paint slight irregularity in the highlight edge so it doesn’t look like plastic.

Metal (high specular, strong contrast)

  • Diffuse: often subdued; metal reads through sharp value jumps and reflected environment.
  • Specular: bright, crisp, and can reach near-white quickly.
  • Pattern: expect alternating bright and dark bands along curved metal (reflection behavior), not just one gentle gradient.

Practical cue: on a metal cylinder, paint a narrow bright streak (Add) next to a darker band, then a softer mid band—this contrast sells metal more than saturation does.

Plastic (clean specular, smoother than skin)

  • Diffuse: present, but smoother and more uniform than fabric.
  • Specular: clearer and more “graphic” than skin; edges can be fairly sharp depending on gloss.
  • Color: colored plastic can keep saturation in midtones, but the brightest specular tends toward the light color.

Practical cue: use a soft Screen highlight for the body, then a sharper Add highlight with a clean edge; keep it simple and controlled.

Mini-practice: three material swatches → choose a style → apply to your illustration

Part A — Create three small swatches

  • Make a new group called Material Swatches.
  • Create three squares/rectangles (about 300–500 px each) filled with different base colors (e.g., warm beige for skin, muted blue for fabric, neutral gray for metal/plastic).
  • Add a simple shadow pass if needed so you can judge highlight contrast (keep it simple—one light direction).

Part B — Paint three different highlight styles

For each swatch, add a highlight layer stack (Soft/Specular) and paint:

  • Swatch 1: Skin — broad soft Screen highlight + tiny Add accents on “moist” spots.
  • Swatch 2: Fabric — soft, broken Screen highlights following fold-like bands; avoid strong Add.
  • Swatch 3: Metal or Plastic — sharper Add streaks with strong contrast; optionally a tiny Color Dodge sparkle point.

Thumbnail test: zoom out until all three swatches are small. The material should still read correctly: skin = gentle glow, fabric = soft/broken, metal/plastic = crisp/bright.

Part C — Choose one highlight approach and apply it to the main illustration

  • Decide which material behavior matches your main subject (or split by parts: skin for face, fabric for clothing, metal for accessories).
  • Create the same highlight layer stack above your main painting.
  • Apply highlights using the same rules you tested: placement by plane, controlled intensity hierarchy, and consistent light color.
  • Do one final thumbnail check and reduce any highlight that steals focus from your intended focal area.

Now answer the exercise about the content:

When building highlights so they look believable and not “pasted on,” which approach best follows the recommended workflow?

You are right! Congratulations, now go to the next page

You missed! Try again.

Highlights stay cohesive when they follow one light logic and an intensity hierarchy. A common setup is a clipped Screen layer for soft broad highlights, then limited Add accents for small specular hits only where the surface is glossy.

Next chapter

Krita for Beginners: Blending, Edge Control, and Texture Without Over-Smearing

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