Acrylic Painting Basics: Tools, Surfaces, and a Clean Painting Setup

Capítulo 1

Estimated reading time: 9 minutes

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Core Starter Kit: What You Actually Need

Acrylic painting can stay simple if you choose a small set of reliable tools that support clean mixing, controlled application, and easy cleanup. The goal of a starter kit is consistency: predictable paint behavior, a surface that accepts paint well, and a setup that prevents mess.

Paint: Student Grade vs Artist Grade

Student grade acrylics are budget-friendly and great for practice, but they often contain more filler and less pigment. That can mean weaker coverage, chalkier mixes, and more paint needed to reach strong color.

Artist grade acrylics cost more but usually have higher pigment load and cleaner mixing. You’ll notice stronger color with less paint, smoother blends, and more predictable results when mixing neutrals and darks.

FeatureStudent GradeArtist Grade
Pigment strengthLowerHigher
Mixing clarityCan get muddy fasterCleaner mixes
Opacity consistencyVaries by colorMore consistent
Best useSkill-building, studiesFinished mini paintings

Practical approach: start with student grade for most colors, then upgrade your most-used mixing colors (often white, a blue, and a red) to artist grade when you want smoother results.

Essential Colors for Mixing (Small, Flexible Set)

For mini paintings, a limited palette reduces clutter and improves color harmony. A practical starter set focuses on mixing range rather than owning many tubes.

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  • Titanium White (essential for tints and opacity)
  • Primary Yellow (or a warm yellow like Hansa Yellow Medium)
  • Primary Red (or a cool red like Quinacridone Magenta for clean purples)
  • Ultramarine Blue (versatile, mixes rich darks)
  • Phthalo Blue (powerful tinting strength; use tiny amounts)
  • Burnt Umber (fast neutrals, natural shadows, tones down bright mixes)

Optional but helpful: Mars Black (convenient but can deaden mixes), Yellow Ochre (earthy landscapes), and a premixed Green (useful for speed, still mix to vary).

Palette Types (and When to Use Each)

  • Disposable palette paper: fastest cleanup; great for small sessions and minis.
  • Stay-wet palette: keeps acrylic workable longer; best if you mix many piles or paint over several short sessions. Use sparingly with very fluid mixes to avoid over-thinning.
  • Plastic or ceramic palette: durable and easy to scrape; ceramic stays cooler and can slow drying slightly.

Tip for minis: choose a palette that fits your table without crowding. A smaller palette encourages smaller, fresher mixes and reduces wasted paint.

Palette Knife (Small Tool, Big Difference)

A palette knife is for mixing paint cleanly and scraping the palette. It prevents paint from packing into brush ferrules (the metal part), which helps brushes last longer.

  • Choose a small to medium, flexible, diamond or trowel-shaped knife.
  • Use it to mix, pull out paint, and scrape dried paint from hard palettes.

Water Containers, Towels, and Wipes

Acrylic dries fast, so your rinse system matters.

  • Two water containers: one for the first dirty rinse, one for a final clean rinse. This keeps colors cleaner.
  • Absorbent towel or shop towel: for shaping brushes and controlling moisture.
  • Optional wipes: for quick hand cleanup and catching small drips before they spread.

Masking Tape (Clean Edges and Easy Handling)

Masking tape is useful for mini paintings because it creates crisp borders and lets you handle small surfaces without touching wet paint.

  • Use artist tape or low-tack masking tape to reduce tearing.
  • Press tape down firmly with a fingernail or a clean tool to prevent seepage.
  • Remove tape slowly, pulling back on itself at a low angle, ideally when paint is dry to the touch but not fully cured.

Surfaces for Mini Paintings: Paper, Canvas Panels, and Primed Boards

Mini paintings benefit from surfaces that stay flat, accept multiple layers, and tolerate quick drying. Your choice affects texture, edge sharpness, and how easily you can paint fine details.

Acrylic Paper

Best for: quick studies, practice minis, travel kits.

  • Look for heavyweight acrylic paper (often 300 gsm/140 lb or higher).
  • Paper can buckle with watery paint; tape it down on a board to keep it flat.
  • Surface texture varies: smoother paper supports detail; textured paper adds grain.

Sizing note: many acrylic papers are already sized for paint, but if you plan to use very wet underlayers, a thin coat of gesso can improve consistency.

Canvas Panels

Best for: a classic canvas feel in a compact, affordable format.

  • Canvas panels are canvas glued to board, so they’re more rigid than stretched canvas and great for minis.
  • Texture can make tiny details harder; use a slightly larger brush than you think, or choose smoother panels.
  • Edges are thin; tape borders carefully if you want a clean frame-like edge.

Primed Boards (Hardboard, MDF, or Wood Panels)

Best for: crisp detail, smooth blends, and a sturdy mini painting surface.

  • Boards stay flat and allow sharp edges and controlled brushwork.
  • Great for techniques that need scraping or multiple layers because the surface is stable.
  • Choose pre-primed panels or prime your own for a smoother finish.

Pre-Primed vs Adding Gesso

Pre-primed surfaces are convenient and usually ready to paint. However, factory primer can be absorbent or uneven depending on brand. Adding gesso lets you control smoothness and absorbency.

OptionProsWhen to choose
Pre-primedFast, consistent enough for most practiceShort sessions, studies, quick minis
Add gessoCustom smoothness, better control of absorbencyDetail work, glazing, very even backgrounds

How to Gesso a Small Surface (Simple Method)

  1. Secure the surface on a flat table (tape paper to a board; place panels on a non-slip mat).

  2. Apply a thin coat of acrylic gesso with a flat brush or foam brush. Avoid thick ridges.

  3. Let it dry fully (often 20–60 minutes depending on thickness and airflow).

  4. Lightly sand if you want a smoother finish (fine grit like 320–600). Wipe dust off with a dry cloth.

  5. Add a second coat for a more uniform surface. Sand again if needed.

Practical tip: for mini paintings with fine lines, two thin coats plus light sanding often feels noticeably smoother than one thick coat.

Step-by-Step: Setting Up a Tidy Acrylic Workspace

A tidy setup reduces accidental color contamination, prevents spills, and keeps paint workable longer. The key is to assign each item a consistent “home” so your hands move automatically.

1) Protect the Table (Fast, Reliable Options)

  • Plastic table cover or a cut-open trash bag taped down for quick protection.
  • Silicone mat for a reusable, non-slip surface under your palette.
  • Cardboard or foam board as a disposable work board for taping down paper minis.

2) Arrange Your Station (Right-Handed Layout; Reverse if Left-Handed)

Place items so wet tools don’t cross over clean areas.

  • Palette: centered or slightly to your right.
  • Paint tubes: behind the palette in a single row (caps facing the same direction).
  • Water containers: upper right corner, slightly away from the palette edge to reduce tipping risk.
  • Towel: to the right of the water, folded into a thick pad.
  • Brush rest/holder: between palette and towel, so brushes can be set down without rolling.
  • Surface (mini painting): centered in front of you with enough elbow room.

3) Prevent Spills and Painty Accidents

  • Use wide, low water jars or weighted containers. Avoid tall cups.
  • Put water on a tray (a shallow baking tray works). If it tips, the tray catches most of it.
  • Keep the palette edge clear so you don’t knock it while reaching for water.
  • Cap paint tubes immediately after dispensing to prevent drying in the nozzle and accidental smears.

4) Set Up Brush Organization (So They Stay Usable)

Brushes get damaged most often from being left in water or allowed to dry with paint near the ferrule.

  • Working brushes: keep 3–6 brushes out, not the whole set.
  • Rest position: lay brushes flat on a brush rest or folded towel; avoid balancing them on jar rims.
  • Rinse routine: quick rinse, wipe on towel, then return to painting. Don’t let brushes soak.

5) Tape and Handle Minis Cleanly

  1. Mount paper to a rigid board with tape on all four sides to reduce warping and create a clean border.

  2. Burnish tape edges (press down firmly) before painting backgrounds.

  3. Use the tape border as a “touch zone” so your fingers don’t land on wet paint.

6) Keep Paint Workable Longer (Without Making a Mess)

  • Dispense small amounts of paint; add more as needed.
  • Mist the palette lightly with water if paint skins over (avoid puddles that over-thin mixes).
  • Group mixes on the palette: lights on one side, darks on the other, neutrals in the middle.

Safety and Cleanup: Ventilation, Mediums, Drying, and Protecting Tools

Ventilation and General Safety

  • Ventilate the room, especially if you use mediums, varnishes, or products with noticeable odor.
  • Avoid aerosol sprays indoors unless you have strong ventilation and can protect surrounding surfaces.
  • Keep food and drinks separate from paint water and tools to prevent accidental contamination.

Handling Mediums (Simple Rules)

Many acrylic mediums are water-based, but they still benefit from careful handling.

  • Read labels for ventilation and skin-contact guidance.
  • Use small amounts in a separate mixing area on the palette to avoid over-thinning your main piles.
  • Close containers promptly; acrylic mediums can skin over like paint.

Drying Times: Touch-Dry vs Fully Cured

  • Touch-dry: the surface feels dry; often minutes to an hour depending on thickness, humidity, and airflow.
  • Cured: the acrylic film has hardened through; thicker areas take longer. Avoid stacking minis face-to-face until fully cured to prevent sticking or imprinting.

Cleanup: Avoiding Acrylic Damage on Brushes, Tools, and Drains

  • Don’t let acrylic dry on tools: dried acrylic is plastic-like and can permanently stiffen brushes.
  • Clean brushes promptly: rinse, wipe, then wash with mild soap if needed. Shape the bristles before drying.
  • Never pour paint sludge down the drain: let rinse water sit so pigment settles, pour off clearer water, and wipe out the settled residue into trash. This helps prevent clogs and reduces pigment entering plumbing.
  • Scrape palettes: use a palette knife to remove excess paint; wipe with a damp cloth before it dries.
  • Dry storage: store brushes horizontally or bristles-up once dry; avoid bristles-down in a jar.

Now answer the exercise about the content:

When setting up a tidy acrylic workspace, what is the main reason for using two water containers instead of one?

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You missed! Try again.

Using two containers creates a dirty-rinse stage and a clean-rinse stage, which reduces muddy water contamination and helps keep paint colors cleaner while you work.

Next chapter

Acrylic Painting Basics: Paint Consistency, Water Control, and Acrylic Mediums

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