Story Sticks and Direct Transfer Layout for Repeatable Parts

Why Story Sticks Beat Repeated Measuring

A story stick is a dedicated layout template—usually a straight, stable strip of wood—that stores the key locations for a set of parts. Instead of reading numbers over and over, you transfer locations directly from the stick to each workpiece. This does two important things:

• Eliminates repeated measurement: you stop “re-finding” the same dimensions for every part.
• Prevents cumulative error: small reading/marking differences don’t stack up across a batch because every part is marked from the same physical reference.

Story sticks are especially useful for repeatable parts: shelf-pin rows, face frame rails/stiles, drawer parts, cabinet stretchers, and any situation where multiple components must match each other.

Choosing Material and Setting Up the Stick

Pick a stable strip

Use a straight-grained, stable strip that won’t change length easily. Common choices are a hardwood offcut, plywood, or MDF. Aim for something like 3/4 in. thick by 1–2 in. wide and long enough to cover the full layout span.

Establish a single reference end

One end of the stick becomes the “zero” end. Square it cleanly and mark it unmistakably so you always register from the same end.

• Label it with a bold symbol (e.g., a triangle or “REF”).
• Add an arrow showing the direction of layout.
• If helpful, slightly chamfer the non-reference end so you can’t confuse them by feel.

Decide what gets stored on the stick

Only store critical locations—the points that must repeat accurately:

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• Shoulder lines (e.g., tenon shoulders, rail lengths)
• Hole centers (e.g., shelf pins, hardware)
• Dado/rabbet start and stop points
• Reveal offsets, setback lines, or notch positions

Keep the stick focused. If it becomes cluttered, make a second stick for a different operation.

How to Mark a Story Stick So It Transfers Cleanly

Use clear, unambiguous marks

On the stick, mark locations with a consistent system:

• Lines for edges: dado edges, shoulder lines, start/stop points.
• Crosshair or “X” for centers: hole centers or dowel centers.
• Labels: short notes like “DADO L” and “DADO R” or “PIN CTR.”

Make the mark style match the feature. For example, two lines to represent the two edges of a dado is clearer than a single line that you later have to interpret.

Record orientation and face references

Many layout mistakes come from flipping parts. Add orientation cues:

• Mark “FACE” and “EDGE” on the story stick if the layout depends on a particular face/edge.
• Use a cabinetmaker’s triangle across the batch of parts and the story stick so the same face is always up during marking.

Protect the reference end

The reference end is sacred. Don’t trim it later. If it gets damaged, remake the stick rather than “guessing” a repair.

Direct Transfer Layout: When the Part Itself Is the Best Template

Story sticks are excellent for repeatability, but the most accurate layout often comes from direct transfer between mating parts—because it automatically accounts for real-world thickness, slight variations, and fit requirements.

Knife transfer from a mating part

Use the actual mating component to define the location:

• Place the mating part in its assembled position (or a reliable mock position).
• Hold it firmly so it can’t creep.
• Transfer the edge/shoulder location directly onto the workpiece.

This is ideal for shoulder locations, notch positions, and hardware that must align across parts.

Spacer blocks for repeated offsets

When you need the same setback repeatedly (for example, a consistent reveal or a consistent distance from an edge), use a spacer block:

• Make a block to the exact offset.
• Register the block against the edge.
• Mark the line at the block’s far face.

Spacer blocks are fast, consistent, and reduce the temptation to “just measure it again.”

Project Walkthrough: Story Stick for Shelf Pin Holes (Cabinet Side Panels)

This example builds a story stick for a common task: laying out a row of shelf pin holes on multiple cabinet side panels. The goal is that every panel gets the same hole pattern, starting from the same reference end, with consistent top/bottom margins.

Define the layout decisions (before making the stick)

• Reference end: choose the top of the cabinet side as the reference end (common for shelf pin systems).
• Front setback: decide the distance from the front edge to the hole line (often based on shelf pin jig or hardware requirements).
• Top and bottom margins: decide where the first and last holes should be relative to the top and bottom.
• Hole spacing: decide the spacing (e.g., 32 mm system or a shop standard).

Even though you may have these dimensions from a plan, the story stick’s job is to store the resulting locations so you don’t keep re-measuring them.

Step-by-step: build the shelf-pin story stick

1. Prepare the stick: cut a straight strip longer than the usable hole run. Square one end and mark it clearly as the reference end.

2. Mark the top margin: from the reference end, mark the first hole center location (the top margin). Use a clear center mark style (crosshair or “X”). Label it “1”.

3. Step off the spacing: continue marking hole centers down the stick at your chosen spacing. Number every few holes (e.g., 1, 5, 10, 15) to reduce confusion.

4. Mark the stop point: mark the last usable hole center and label it “LAST” or “STOP”. If you want a bottom margin, ensure the last mark respects it.

5. Add a front-edge setback note: the story stick stores the along-the-length positions. The across-the-width position (front setback) is usually handled by a jig fence or a spacer block. Record the setback on the stick as a reminder (e.g., “Hole line setback = ___ from front”).

6. Add orientation cues: write “TOP/REF END” at the reference end and “FRONT” on the same side you’ll face toward the cabinet front during marking.

Optional: make it self-registering

If you want the story stick to locate itself on the panel consistently, you can add a small cleat or hook at the reference end that catches the top edge of the panel. This reduces the chance of a tiny registration gap at the top.

Batch Layout: Mark Every Part from the Same Stick and Reference End

The power move is not the stick itself—it’s the discipline of using it the same way on every part.

Prepare the batch

• Stack or line up all panels with the same face up and the same end oriented as “top.”
• Mark each panel’s reference end and reference face so you don’t flip one mid-process.
• If panels are paired (left/right cabinet sides), decide whether the hole line is mirrored or identical, and keep pairs together.

Step-by-step: transfer the marks

1. Register the story stick: place the stick’s reference end tight to the panel’s top edge (or against the cleat/hook if you added one). Ensure the stick is aligned along the panel length.

2. Transfer hole centers: at each center mark on the stick, make the corresponding mark on the panel. Work in a consistent direction (top to bottom) and don’t skip around.

3. Repeat for every panel: do not “improve” the process by measuring one panel differently. The whole point is identical transfer.

4. Verify once, not every time: after marking the first panel, compare the story stick to the panel marks to confirm nothing shifted. Then continue the batch with the same setup.

Common failure points (and how to avoid them)

• Registering from the wrong end: make the reference end unmistakable and always start there.
• Flipping a panel: keep face/reference marks visible; don’t mark with parts rotated randomly.
• Stick creep during marking: clamp the stick for long runs or when transferring many marks.
• Cluttered marks: if the stick becomes hard to read, remake it cleaner—story sticks are meant to be disposable precision tools.

Second Example (Short): Face Frame Rail Story Stick + Direct Transfer for Perfect Fit

Face frames often require multiple rails of identical length, with consistent joinery locations. A story stick can store shoulder locations, while direct transfer can refine fit against real parts.

Story stick for repeatable rail length and joinery locations

• Reference end = one shoulder location.
• Mark the opposite shoulder location for finished rail length.
• Mark any additional features (e.g., centerline for a handle rail, or locations for pocket screws if used).

Direct transfer for best fit (when openings vary slightly)

If the cabinet opening or stile spacing varies slightly, use direct transfer:

• Dry-position the stiles (or use a spacer equal to the intended opening).
• Place the rail blank in position.
• Transfer the exact shoulder locations from the stiles/opening onto the rail blank.

This hybrid approach is common: the story stick handles repeatable “standard” parts, and direct transfer handles parts that must match a specific opening.

Quick Reference: What to Put on a Story Stick