What You’re Making and Why It’s a Great Beginner Project
Hemmed napkins are square (or rectangular) pieces of woven fabric with neat, durable edges. They’re a classic “first project” because the shape is simple, the seams are straight, and the finished item is immediately useful. Even better, napkins teach you accuracy and consistency: if your hems are even and your corners are tidy, the whole napkin looks professional.
This project focuses on a narrow double-fold hem (also called a turned hem). You fold the raw edge under once to hide it, then fold again to enclose it completely. The result is a clean edge that holds up to frequent washing. You’ll also learn a reliable way to form crisp corners without bulky lumps.
Finished Size Options (Choose One Set)
Pick a size that matches how you’ll use the napkins. All sizes below assume a double-fold hem with a finished hem width of about 3/8 in (1 cm). If you change the hem width, adjust your cut size accordingly.
- Cocktail napkins: finished 10 in (25 cm) square
- Lunch napkins: finished 14 in (36 cm) square
- Dinner napkins: finished 18 in (46 cm) square
Cut size formula: Finished size + (4 × finished hem width). Example: for an 18 in napkin with a 3/8 in finished hem, add 4 × 3/8 in = 1 1/2 in. Cut 19 1/2 in square.
Materials and Notions (Project-Specific)
- Woven fabric suitable for napkins (cotton, cotton-linen blends, linen). Avoid stretchy knits for this project.
- Thread that matches or coordinates. For a classic look, match the fabric; for a decorative look, choose a subtle contrast.
- Optional: wash-away glue stick or washable fabric glue for holding hems (helpful if you dislike pinning).
- Optional: corner template (a small piece of cardstock) marked with your hem measurements.
Before You Start: Pre-Wash and Plan for Shrinkage
Napkins will be washed often, so pre-wash and dry your fabric the way you plan to launder the finished napkins. This reduces surprise shrinkage and helps remove finishes that can make pressing and stitching less predictable. After washing, press the fabric flat so your cutting and folding are accurate.
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Cutting Layout for a Set of Napkins
If you’re making multiple napkins, cut them assembly-line style. This keeps your measurements consistent and speeds up the process.
Example: Four dinner napkins
- Decide finished size: 18 in square
- Choose finished hem width: 3/8 in
- Cut size: 19 1/2 in square
- Cut four squares at 19 1/2 in
Tip for consistency: Stack-cut two layers at a time if your fabric is stable and you can keep edges aligned. If the fabric shifts, cut single-layer for accuracy.
Marking the Hem Guides (Fast and Accurate)
Accurate folds are easier when you give yourself a guide. You can do this with a ruler and a washable marking tool, or by pressing with measured folds.
Method A: Press-and-measure (no marking)
- Press the first fold at 3/8 in (1 cm) all the way around.
- Press the second fold at 3/8 in again, enclosing the raw edge.
Method B: Light marking (helpful for beginners)
- On the wrong side, mark a line 3/8 in from each edge.
- Mark a second line 3/4 in from each edge (this is where the outer fold will land after two turns).
Use whichever method feels more controllable. The goal is even hems that meet neatly at the corners.
Corner Strategy: Two Reliable Options
Corners are where beginner napkins often look messy. Choose one corner method and use it for all napkins in the set so they match.
Option 1: Mitered corners (crisp, professional)
A mitered corner creates a diagonal seam at the corner so the hem layers overlap neatly without a bulky square. It looks tailored and presses flat.
Option 2: Simple turned corners (easiest, slightly thicker)
This method folds one side over the other at the corner. It’s very beginner-friendly and still looks clean, especially with medium-weight cotton.
The step-by-step below teaches mitered corners first (recommended), then includes a simple-corner alternative.
Step-by-Step: Double-Fold Hem with Mitered Corners
Work on one napkin at a time until you feel confident, then switch to assembly-line: press all first folds on all napkins, then all second folds, then sew all hems.
Step 1: Press the first fold on all four sides
With the napkin wrong side up, fold one edge to the wrong side by 3/8 in (1 cm) and press. Repeat for the opposite edge, then the remaining two edges. Don’t worry about perfect corners yet; just establish the first fold lines.
Practical check: After pressing, measure the fold in a few spots. If it drifts wider or narrower, re-press now. Small inconsistencies become obvious once stitched.
Step 2: Press the second fold on all four sides
Fold the same edge under again by 3/8 in (1 cm), enclosing the raw edge, and press. Repeat for all sides. You now have a neat double-fold hem all around, but the corners will be layered and bulky until you miter them.
Holding the folds: Use pins placed perpendicular to the fold (easy to remove while sewing), or use a tiny amount of washable glue along the inner fold to keep it from springing open.
Step 3: Open the folds at one corner to reveal the pressed creases
Choose a corner. Unfold the second fold on both adjoining sides, then unfold the first fold on both sides. You should see crease lines forming a square at the corner on the wrong side.
Step 4: Create the miter fold
With the corner opened flat, fold the napkin corner diagonally so the raw corner points inward and the crease lines align. You’re essentially bringing the two edges together so the pressed fold lines meet. The diagonal fold should run from the corner toward the inside of the napkin.
How to know it’s aligned: The first-fold crease on one side should line up with the first-fold crease on the other side, forming a continuous straight line across the diagonal fold.
Step 5: Stitch the diagonal seam
Stitch along the diagonal fold line where the creases meet. Keep the seam short and precise, starting and stopping exactly at the points where the crease lines intersect. Backstitch lightly at the beginning and end to secure.
Seam allowance note: You are stitching on the fold/crease line, not using a standard seam allowance. Accuracy matters more than the exact measurement here.
Step 6: Trim and reduce bulk
Trim the corner seam allowance to reduce thickness, leaving about 1/4 in (6 mm). If your fabric is thick, you can trim slightly closer, but leave enough so the seam stays strong. Avoid cutting into the stitches.
Optional bulk control: If the fabric is medium-heavy, you can grade the layers by trimming one layer slightly shorter than the other. This helps the corner press flatter.
Step 7: Turn the corner back into place and press
Refold the first folds and second folds along the original creases. The corner should form a neat diagonal “miter” on the wrong side, with the hem edges meeting cleanly. Press firmly so the corner lies flat.
Repeat Steps 3–7 for the remaining three corners.
Step 8: Stitch the hem all the way around
Stitch close to the inner folded edge of the hem (commonly 1/8 in to 1/4 in, about 3–6 mm). Choose a distance you can keep consistent. A slightly wider stitch distance is often easier for beginners to control and still looks neat.
Where to start: Start mid-side rather than at a corner. This keeps the start/stop area less noticeable and avoids extra bulk right at the corner.
Corner stitching: As you approach a corner, slow down. Stop with the needle down near the corner, pivot the fabric, and continue. Aim to stitch straight across the corner without wobbling.
Thread tails: If you prefer a very clean look, pull thread tails to the wrong side and knot them, or keep backstitching minimal and tidy.
Step 9: Final press for a crisp finish
Press the napkin flat from the wrong side first to set the stitches, then press from the right side. Use steam if your fabric tolerates it. A good press is what makes the napkin look “store-bought.”
Alternative Step-by-Step: Double-Fold Hem with Simple Turned Corners
If mitered corners feel too fussy right now, use this method. The corners will be slightly thicker, but the process is straightforward.
Step 1: Press first and second folds as described above
Press 3/8 in, then 3/8 in again on all sides.
Step 2: At each corner, choose an overlap direction
Decide that the horizontal hem will fold over the vertical hem (or vice versa) for every corner. Keeping the same overlap direction makes the set look consistent.
Step 3: Fold one side’s hem fully into place, then fold the adjacent side over it
At the corner, fold the first side’s double hem into place. Then fold the adjacent side’s double hem over it, tucking the raw corner neatly inside. Press firmly.
Step 4: Stitch around the napkin
Stitch close to the inner fold as before. Go slowly over the thicker corner area.
Keeping Hems Even: Practical Control Tips
Use a consistent seam guide
Pick a reference point on your presser foot (for example, the inner edge of the foot) and keep the folded hem aligned with it. Consistency matters more than the exact measurement.
Pinning strategy that actually helps
Instead of pinning everywhere, place pins at the midpoint of each side and near each corner. This prevents the hem from creeping wider or narrower as you sew.
Prevent “wavy” edges
Wavy edges usually come from pushing or pulling the fabric while stitching. Let the machine feed the fabric. Your hands should guide, not stretch. If you notice waviness, stop and re-press the hem; sometimes the fold has shifted slightly.
Match thread color to hide small mistakes
If you’re nervous about perfectly straight topstitching, matching thread makes tiny wobbles less visible. Once you’re confident, try a contrast thread for a decorative outline.
Customization Ideas (Still Beginner-Friendly)
Make a coordinated set
Use two fabrics: one for everyday and one for special occasions, but keep the same size and hem width so they stack neatly and feel consistent.
Add a simple tag or loop
You can insert a small folded ribbon loop into one side hem (for hanging) or a tiny fabric tag. Place it on a side, not at a corner, and stitch it into the hem when you sew around.
Decorative topstitching line
After the first line of stitching, sew a second line about 1/8 in (3 mm) away toward the outer edge of the hem. This frames the napkin and helps the hem stay flat. Practice on a scrap first to confirm spacing.
Common Issues and Quick Fixes (Project-Specific)
Corner won’t lie flat
- Likely cause: Too much bulk inside the corner.
- Fix: For mitered corners, trim the seam allowance a bit more (carefully). For simple corners, re-fold and press, making sure the raw corner is tucked fully inside.
Hems don’t meet evenly at the corners
- Likely cause: One side’s fold width drifted.
- Fix: Unstitch just that corner area, re-press using a ruler, and re-stitch. It’s faster than trying to “ease” it into place.
Stitch line looks crooked
- Likely cause: Inconsistent guiding or shifting folds.
- Fix: Re-press the hem, pin more frequently, and stitch a little farther from the inner fold (a wider margin is easier to keep straight).
Assembly-Line Workflow for Multiple Napkins
When making a set, repetition improves your results. Use this order:
- Press first fold on all napkins.
- Press second fold on all napkins.
- Form all corners (mitered or simple) and press.
- Stitch hems on all napkins.
- Final press on all napkins.
This approach keeps your hem width and corner style consistent across the set, and it reduces the mental load of switching tasks constantly.
Optional: A Simple “Pattern” You Can Reuse
Even though napkins don’t require a printed pattern, you can create a reusable template to speed up future sets.
Cardstock corner guide
Cut a small square of cardstock (about 3 in × 3 in). Mark two lines from each edge: one at 3/8 in and one at 3/4 in. Use it at each corner while pressing to confirm your folds match the same measurements every time.
Cutting template
If you plan to make many napkins in the same size, create a sturdy template (poster board or quilting template plastic) at the cut size. Trace around it for quick, consistent cutting.
