Project: Drawstring Gift Bag

What You’re Making: A Drawstring Gift Bag

A drawstring gift bag is a reusable fabric pouch that closes at the top with one or two cords pulled through a casing (a fabric “tunnel”). It’s a practical beginner project because it teaches you how to sew a simple bag shape, create a neat top edge, and form a casing that still allows the opening to gather smoothly. You can use it for gifting, organizing small items, travel, or storing sewing supplies.

There are two common versions:

• Single-drawstring bag: one cord runs all the way around and ties in a bow. Simple and fast, but the opening gathers more to one side when pulled.
• Double-drawstring bag: two cords run in opposite directions and tie on both sides. This closes more evenly and looks more “store-bought.” This chapter focuses on the double-drawstring method because it’s still beginner-friendly and gives a polished result.

You’ll also learn a key idea: the casing must have openings (small gaps in the side seams) so the cords can enter and exit. Those openings are planned and sewn on purpose, not mistakes.

Materials and Notions (Project-Specific)

Choose a woven fabric that is easy to handle and not overly stretchy. Quilting cotton, cotton canvas, or a light denim are excellent. Very thick fabrics can make the casing bulky; very slippery fabrics can be frustrating for a first bag.

• Fabric: 1 fat quarter is enough for a small bag; for larger sizes, use a larger cut (yardage depends on your chosen dimensions).
• Drawstring cord: cotton cord, satin rattail, twill tape, or ribbon. Avoid very narrow ribbon that can twist and cut into the casing.
• Safety pin or bodkin: for threading the cord through the casing.
• Optional: fusible interfacing for a crisp top edge (useful on very lightweight fabric), decorative trim, or a tag.

Cord length guideline: For a double-drawstring bag, cut two cords, each about 2× the bag width + 12 in (30 cm). Example: if your bag is 8 in wide, each cord is about 28 in. Longer is safer; you can trim later.

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Choose a Size (Three Ready-to-Use Options)

Pick one of these finished sizes. The cutting sizes below already include seam allowances and top casing allowances for this method.

Option A: Small (jewelry, gift cards)

• Finished size: about 5 in wide × 7 in tall
• Cut: 2 rectangles, each 6 in wide × 10 in tall
• Cord: 2 pieces, each ~24 in

Option B: Medium (candles, small toys)

• Finished size: about 8 in wide × 10 in tall
• Cut: 2 rectangles, each 9 in wide × 13 in tall
• Cord: 2 pieces, each ~30–34 in

Option C: Large (books, boxed gifts)

• Finished size: about 12 in wide × 14 in tall
• Cut: 2 rectangles, each 13 in wide × 17 in tall
• Cord: 2 pieces, each ~40–44 in

How these dimensions work (conceptually): The extra width covers side seams. The extra height covers the bottom seam plus a folded top edge that becomes the casing. This project uses a double-fold top that creates a clean edge and enough depth for the cord to slide.

Plan the Casing and the Side Openings

The casing is formed by folding the top edge down twice and stitching around the bag near the top. For a double-drawstring bag, you’ll stitch two parallel lines around the bag to create a channel on each side of a center “ridge.” The cords will sit in these channels and exit through openings in the side seams.

This chapter uses a casing with these fold amounts (you can keep them the same for all sizes):

• First fold: 1/2 in to the wrong side (hides the raw edge)
• Second fold: 1 1/2 in to the wrong side (creates casing depth)
• Two casing stitch lines: one near the top folded edge, one about 3/4 in below it

The side openings must align with the space between those two casing stitch lines. That way, the cord can pass through the casing but the opening won’t show below the casing area.

Step-by-Step: Sew the Bag

1) Prepare the two fabric rectangles

Place the two rectangles right sides together, aligning all edges. If your fabric has a directional print (like trees or text), make sure both pieces are oriented so the print will be upright when the bag is finished.

If you want an optional label or tag, attach it now to one rectangle on the right side, positioned a few inches down from the top edge so it won’t be caught in the casing fold.

2) Mark the casing zone and the side openings

On one side edge, measure down from the top raw edge and mark these points on both side seams (left and right):

• Mark A: 1/2 in down (this is where the raw edge will fold under; it’s a reference)
• Mark B: 2 in down (1/2 in + 1 1/2 in). This is the bottom of the casing fold.
• Opening zone: between about 3/4 in down and 1 1/2 in down from the top raw edge (this will sit inside the casing area). If you prefer a simpler marking method, mark a 3/4 in tall opening centered within the casing depth.

Practical approach: you can mark the opening as a short segment on each side seam where you will not stitch when sewing the side seams. Keep the opening within the casing area so it won’t gape open on the finished bag.

3) Sew the side seams and bottom seam (with openings)

With right sides together, sew down one side seam from the bottom up toward the top, but stop when you reach the opening zone. Backstitch to secure, skip over the opening zone, then start sewing again above it and continue to the top edge. Repeat for the other side seam. Then sew across the bottom edge.

Key details:

• Keep seam allowance consistent so the bag turns out symmetrical.
• Backstitch at both ends of each opening so the seam doesn’t rip when you pull the drawstrings.
• Do not sew the top edge; it stays open.

If you want a flatter bottom, you can leave it as-is (a simple pouch). If you want a more “boxy” base, add boxed corners later (see optional section below).

4) Press the side seam openings carefully

Turn the bag wrong side out (seams visible). At each side opening, press the seam allowances open above and below the gap. In the gap itself, press the seam allowances open as well, creating a neat “window.” This step makes the casing stitching much easier and helps the opening look intentional.

Practical tip: If the opening edges want to curl, you can stitch a tiny reinforcing rectangle around the opening later, but pressing well often makes that unnecessary for a beginner bag.

5) Create the double-fold top edge

Still with the bag wrong side out, fold the top raw edge down 1/2 in to the wrong side all the way around and press. Then fold down again 1 1/2 in and press. The second fold should cover the side seam openings completely, with the openings sitting inside the folded casing area.

Pin or clip around the top to hold the fold in place, paying special attention at the side seams so the fold stays even and the opening remains unobstructed.

6) Stitch the casing: two rows of stitching

You will sew two parallel lines around the bag to form the double-drawstring casing. Sew slowly over the side seams (thicker area) and keep the stitching level.

• Row 1 (upper row): Stitch close to the top folded edge (for example, 1/8–1/4 in from the edge). This secures the fold and creates the top of the casing.
• Row 2 (lower row): Stitch around the bag about 3/4 in below Row 1. This creates two channels: one above Row 2 and one below Row 1, separated by the stitching line.

Important: When you sew these rows, you are stitching through the folded casing layers. Make sure you do not accidentally stitch the bag closed at the side openings. The openings should remain open into the casing channel.

Practical check: After sewing Row 2, look at each side opening from the outside. You should see a clear path into the casing tunnel, not stitches blocking it.

7) Turn the bag right side out and shape it

Turn the bag right side out. Push out the bottom corners gently (use a blunt tool, not something sharp that could poke through). Smooth the top casing with your fingers so it lies flat and even.

Thread the Drawstrings (Double-Drawstring Method)

This is the step that makes the bag “work.” You will insert two separate cords, each traveling around the bag in opposite directions, and each cord will exit on opposite sides.

1) Identify the casing channels

Because you stitched two rows, you now have a casing area with a stitched line in the middle. The cord will pass through the casing space. Depending on your exact spacing, you may treat it as one continuous channel or as two channels separated by the middle stitch line. For the classic double-drawstring look, you’ll thread both cords through the same casing path but in opposite directions, entering and exiting through the side openings.

2) Attach the first cord to a safety pin (or bodkin)

Secure one end of cord to the safety pin. Insert the pin into one side opening and guide it through the casing all the way around the bag until it comes back out the same opening (completing a full loop). Pull the cord through until both ends are even.

Then tie the two ends together in a knot, or leave them free for a bow. If you knot, keep the knot large enough that it won’t slip back into the casing.

3) Thread the second cord in the opposite direction

Start at the other side opening. Insert the second cord and guide it through the casing in the opposite direction around the bag until it returns to the starting opening. Pull through, even the ends, and knot or bow.

When you pull both cords outward at the same time, the bag should close evenly from both sides. If it closes unevenly, one cord may be twisted or caught on a seam allowance inside the casing; gently work it back and forth to smooth it.

Optional Upgrade: Boxed Corners for a Flat Bottom

If you want the bag to stand up better, add boxed corners before you sew the casing (best done right after sewing the side and bottom seams, while the bag is still wrong side out).

Method overview: you pinch each bottom corner so the side seam and bottom seam align, then stitch across to create a flat base.

Boxed corner steps

• With the bag wrong side out, pinch one bottom corner so the side seam sits directly on top of the bottom seam, forming a triangle.
• Measure from the point of the triangle inward to your desired depth (for example, 1 in for a small bag, 1 1/2 in for medium, 2 in for large) and mark a line perpendicular to the seam.
• Sew along the marked line, backstitching at both ends.
• Repeat for the other corner.
• Trim the triangle seam allowance if desired, leaving enough fabric so the seam remains strong.

After boxing corners, continue with pressing the side openings and sewing the casing as described above.

Optional Upgrade: Lined Drawstring Gift Bag (Clean Inside)

If you want a fully clean interior with no visible seam allowances, you can make a lined version. The concept is to sew an outer bag and a lining bag, join them at the top, then fold and stitch the casing. This adds steps but looks very professional.

High-level method (without repeating general seam-finishing lessons):

• Cut two outer rectangles and two lining rectangles the same size.
• Sew outer side seams and bottom seam with openings. Sew lining side seams and bottom seam, but leave a small turning gap in the lining bottom seam.
• Place outer bag inside lining bag, right sides together, align top edges, and sew around the top edge.
• Turn through the lining gap, press the top edge, then form the casing folds and stitch the casing rows.
• Close the lining turning gap with a neat stitch.

For beginners, the unlined version is ideal; the lined method is a great next step once you’re comfortable with the casing and drawstring threading.

Customization Ideas (Beginner-Friendly)

Color-block top band

Cut the top 3–4 inches of the bag from a contrasting fabric and sew it to the main body before assembling the bag. Place the band so the casing sits within the contrasting section for a deliberate design.

Decorative casing stitching

Use matching thread for invisible stitching or contrasting thread for a decorative look. Keep stitches straight and evenly spaced; the casing rows are very visible on the finished bag.

Ribbon drawstrings and end finishes

Ribbon can look elegant for gift bags. To prevent fraying at ribbon ends, fold the end under and stitch, or tie a neat knot. For cord, you can wrap the ends with thread and stitch over it for a handmade “aglet” effect.

Common Issues and Quick Fixes (Project-Specific)

Cord won’t pass through the casing

• Cause: casing is too tight, stitches are too close together, or fabric is bulky.
• Fix: use a thinner cord, widen the casing depth next time, or re-stitch the lower casing row slightly lower to increase channel space.

Side openings are stitched shut

• Cause: casing stitching accidentally caught the opening edges.
• Fix: carefully unpick only the stitches blocking the opening, then re-stitch around that area, stopping before the opening and restarting after it.

Bag closes unevenly

• Cause: cords threaded in the same direction, or one cord is not a full loop.
• Fix: remove one cord and re-thread from the opposite side opening in the opposite direction.

Top edge looks wavy

• Cause: uneven folding or stretching while stitching.
• Fix: press the folds firmly before stitching; stitch slowly and keep the casing fold aligned. If needed, unpick and re-stitch the casing rows for a cleaner look.

Mini Pattern Formula (Make Any Size You Want)

If you’d like to draft your own size without a printable pattern, use this simple formula. Decide your finished width and finished height first.

Finished width (W) = desired bag width when flat (inches or cm) Finished height (H) = desired bag height (not including drawstring ruffle) Cut width = W + 2 × side seam allowance Cut height = H + bottom seam allowance + (top hem fold 1) + (top casing fold 2) Example fold amounts: top hem fold 1 = 1/2 in, top casing fold 2 = 1 1/2 in Total top allowance = 2 in

Then place your side openings within that 2-inch top allowance so they sit inside the casing area. Keep openings modest (about 3/4 in tall is a good starting point) and reinforce with backstitching at the ends.