Project: Basic Tote Bag

What You’ll Make (and Why It’s a Great Beginner Project)

A basic tote bag is a simple, sturdy carry-all with two handles and a boxed bottom (optional) that gives it depth. It’s an ideal early project because it teaches you how to sew long straight seams, keep layers aligned, reinforce stress points, and create clean top edges—all while producing something you can use immediately. In this chapter you’ll sew a lined tote (outer fabric + lining) with webbing or fabric handles. The lining hides raw edges and makes the bag feel “finished” without requiring advanced techniques.

You can keep the tote flat (like a book bag) or add boxed corners for a roomier shape. The instructions below include both options. You’ll also learn how to customize size, add an interior pocket, and adjust handle length for hand-carry or shoulder-carry.

Materials and Notions (Project-Specific)

Choose materials that match how you’ll use the tote. A grocery tote needs more structure than a light library bag.

• Outer fabric: Medium-weight woven cotton, canvas, denim, or home-dec fabric. For a first tote, quilting cotton works, but canvas/denim will feel sturdier.
• Lining fabric: Quilting cotton or other smooth woven cotton.
• Handles: 1" (2.5 cm) cotton webbing is easiest and strong. You can also sew fabric handles from the outer fabric.
• Thread: All-purpose polyester thread.
• Optional interfacing: Fusible woven or nonwoven interfacing for the outer fabric (or for the lining) if you want more body.
• Optional pocket: A rectangle of lining fabric (or contrasting fabric).
• Optional closure: Magnetic snap, sew-on snap, or a simple tie (not required for the basic version).

Finished Size and Cutting Plan

This tote is drafted from rectangles, so you don’t need a printed pattern. The sample size below makes a practical everyday tote.

Sample tote (recommended first version)

• Finished size (approx.): 14" wide × 15" tall × 3" deep (35.5 × 38 × 7.5 cm)
• Seam allowance: 1/2" (1.3 cm) unless noted

Cutting

• Outer: Cut 2 rectangles, 15" wide × 16" tall
• Lining: Cut 2 rectangles, 15" wide × 16" tall
• Handles (webbing): Cut 2 lengths, 24" each for shoulder carry (or 18" each for hand carry)
• Optional pocket: Cut 1 rectangle, 8" wide × 10" tall (or any size you like)
• Optional interfacing: Cut to match the outer rectangles (or slightly smaller to reduce bulk in seams)

How the sizing works: The bag’s finished width is roughly the cut width minus seam allowances on both sides. The finished height is roughly the cut height minus the top hem/turning and seam allowances. Boxed corners reduce width slightly while adding depth.

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Plan Your Tote: Key Choices Before You Sew

1) Flat bottom or boxed bottom?

Flat tote: Fastest and simplest. Great for books and light items.

Boxed corners: Adds depth so the tote stands up better and holds bulky items. This chapter shows a simple boxed-corner method using a square cut-out at the bottom corners.

2) Handle length and placement

For shoulder carry, 24" webbing handles are a comfortable starting point. For hand carry, 18" is typical. Handle placement affects comfort and strength: set them in from the side seams so the weight distributes across the top edge.

Suggested placement: Mark each handle position so the inner edge of each handle is about 3.5" from the side seam (adjust to taste). Keep the handles symmetrical.

3) Structure: interfacing or no?

If your fabric is floppy (light quilting cotton), interfacing helps the tote keep its shape. If you’re using canvas or denim, you may skip interfacing for a softer, slouchy tote.

Step-by-Step: Sew the Tote

Step 1: Optional—Add interfacing to the outer pieces

If using fusible interfacing, apply it to the wrong side of each outer rectangle following the interfacing instructions. Keep interfacing out of the seam allowance if you want less bulk: cut it 1/2" smaller on all sides, or trim after fusing.

Step 2: Optional—Sew an interior pocket

An interior pocket is a useful skill and makes the tote feel more professional. This is a simple patch pocket.

• Finish the pocket top edge: On the pocket rectangle, fold the top edge down 1/2" and press, then fold down another 1" and press. Stitch close to the folded edge to create a neat top hem.
• Press remaining edges: Fold the side and bottom edges to the wrong side by 1/2" and press.
• Position on one lining piece: Place the pocket on the right side of one lining rectangle. A common placement is centered left-to-right and about 3"–4" down from the top edge. Pin or clip.
• Stitch pocket: Sew around the sides and bottom close to the folded edges, backstitching at the top corners for strength.

Practical tip: If you want two pocket sections, stitch a vertical line down the pocket center after attaching it. Backstitch at the top of that line too.

Step 3: Make the outer bag body

Place the two outer rectangles right sides together. Align edges carefully and pin/clip along both sides and the bottom.

• Sew side seams and bottom seam: Stitch down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side with a 1/2" seam allowance. Use a consistent seam allowance—this is what keeps the tote symmetrical.
• Press seams: Press the seams open or to one side, depending on your fabric thickness. Pressing now makes later steps easier and neater.

Step 4: Box the outer corners (optional but recommended)

Boxed corners create depth by turning the bottom corners into small seams.

Method A: Cut-out squares (easy and accurate)

• Mark cut-outs: With the outer bag still wrong side out, at each bottom corner, measure and mark a 1.5" square (for a 3" finished depth). The square is measured from the corner along the bottom seam and up the side seam.
• Cut: Cut out the squares from both bottom corners.
• Match seams: Open one cut-out corner and bring the side seam and bottom seam together so they align. This forms a straight line where the cut-out was.
• Sew the boxed seam: Stitch across this straight edge with a 1/2" seam allowance. Repeat for the other corner.

Depth guide: The cut-out square size equals half the finished depth. For a 4" deep tote, cut 2" squares. For a 2" deep tote, cut 1" squares.

Step 5: Make the lining bag body (leave a turning gap)

Repeat the same process with the two lining rectangles, but leave an opening in the bottom seam so you can turn the bag right side out later.

• Sew lining sides and bottom: Place lining pieces right sides together. Stitch down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side with a 1/2" seam allowance.
• Leave a turning gap: In the bottom seam, leave a gap about 4"–6" wide. To do this, stitch from one corner toward the center, stop and backstitch, skip the gap, then start again and backstitch before continuing to the other corner.
• Press seams: Press as you did for the outer bag.

Step 6: Box the lining corners (if you boxed the outer)

If you added boxed corners to the outer bag, do the same to the lining so they fit together properly. Use the same cut-out size and the same steps. Keep the turning gap in the lining bottom seam intact.

Step 7: Prepare and position the handles

Handles are the parts that take the most stress, so accurate placement and reinforcement matter.

Option 1: Webbing handles (recommended)

• Seal ends (optional): If your webbing frays, you can carefully heat-seal the cut ends (use caution and do not scorch). Alternatively, fold under 1/2" at each end for a cleaner finish, but that adds thickness.
• Mark placement on the outer bag: Turn the outer bag right side out. On the top edge, mark handle placement points. A common setup: measure 3.5" in from each side seam for the inner handle edge. Mark two points per handle, keeping them evenly spaced.
• Pin handles: Place each handle end on the right side of the outer bag, aligning the raw end with the top raw edge. Make sure the handle isn’t twisted. Pin/clip securely.

Option 2: Fabric handles (if you prefer matching fabric)

Cut 2 strips 4" wide × 24" long (or desired length). Fold each strip lengthwise right sides together, stitch along the long edge with a 1/2" seam allowance, turn right side out, press with the seam centered on the underside, then topstitch along both long edges. Treat the finished straps like webbing in the steps below.

Step 8: Assemble outer and lining (the “bag inside a bag” method)

This method gives you a clean top edge with the lining attached.

• Outer bag: Keep the outer bag right side out with handles pinned to the top edge.
• Lining bag: Turn the lining bag wrong side out.
• Insert: Put the outer bag inside the lining bag. Right sides should be facing each other (outer right side against lining right side). Align side seams and top edges.
• Pin/clip top edge: Pin all the way around the top, making sure handle ends stay in place between the layers. Check that each handle end is fully inside the seam allowance area and not sticking out.
• Sew around the top: Stitch around the entire top edge with a 1/2" seam allowance. Go slowly over handle areas; they are thicker. Backstitch when you complete the circle.

Practical check: Before sewing, peek between layers at each handle end to confirm the handle isn’t twisted and both ends are aligned with the top edge.

Step 9: Turn the tote right side out

Reach into the lining and locate the turning gap in the lining bottom seam. Pull the outer bag through the gap until the entire tote is right side out.

• Shape corners: Push out the bottom corners gently so they form crisp boxed corners (if used). Avoid using sharp tools that can poke through fabric.
• Press the top edge: Tuck the lining into the outer bag. Roll the top seam slightly so the lining doesn’t show from the outside, then press all the way around the top edge.

Step 10: Close the turning gap in the lining

Fold the raw edges of the turning gap inward along the seam allowance and press. Stitch the opening closed close to the folded edge. You can do this by machine with a neat edge stitch, or by hand with a ladder stitch if you want the seam to be nearly invisible.

Step 11: Topstitch the tote opening and reinforce handles

Topstitching strengthens the top edge and keeps the lining from rolling out.

• Topstitch: Stitch around the top edge 1/8"–1/4" from the edge, keeping the line even. Go slowly at thick points.
• Reinforce handles: Sew a reinforcement box at each handle end. A simple method: stitch a rectangle around the handle end area (about 1" tall), then stitch an X inside the rectangle. This spreads the load when the tote is heavy.

Practical example: If you plan to carry groceries, add a second row of topstitching around the top edge (about 3/8" from the edge) for extra strength and a professional look.

Customization: Make the Tote Your Own

Change the size (simple rectangle math)

To draft a different size, decide your finished width and height first. Add seam allowances and top turn allowance.

• Cut width ≈ finished width + 1" (for two 1/2" side seams)
• Cut height ≈ finished height + 1" (bottom seam + top seam allowance) + extra for top shaping (usually another 1"–2" depending on how you like the top edge)

Example: For a smaller tote finished at 12" wide × 13" tall, cut rectangles about 13" wide × 14.5"–15" tall, then test with a quick paper mock-up if you’re unsure.

Add an exterior pocket

Use the same patch pocket method as the interior pocket, but attach it to one outer piece before sewing the outer bag body. If your outer fabric is thick, keep the pocket fabric lighter to reduce bulk.

Add a key loop

Cut a small strip of fabric or ribbon, fold it into a loop, and insert it into the top seam near a side seam (like a mini handle). After turning, topstitching will secure it. Clip keys to it with a small clasp.

Add a magnetic snap (optional)

Install a magnetic snap on the lining before assembling the outer and lining. Place it centered, about 1.5"–2" below the top edge. Use small interfacing squares behind the snap areas to reinforce the fabric so it doesn’t tear with use.

Common Beginner Issues (and Quick Fixes)

My tote opening looks wavy or stretched

• Press the top edge thoroughly before topstitching; pressing does a lot of the “shaping.”
• If your fabric stretches, use more pins/clips and sew slowly, keeping the edge aligned.
• Topstitch with the tote flat under the machine, smoothing the fabric ahead of the needle.

The lining peeks out at the top

• After turning, roll the seam so the lining is slightly inside, then press firmly.
• Topstitch close to the edge to hold the roll in place.

Handles look uneven

• Measure and mark handle placement on both sides before pinning.
• After pinning, fold the tote in half to check symmetry: the handles should mirror each other.
• If one handle is slightly off, unpick just that handle end and resew before assembling with the lining (easier than fixing later).

Boxed corners don’t match or twist

• Make sure the side seam and bottom seam are aligned directly on top of each other before sewing the boxed seam.
• Pin across the boxed seam line before stitching to prevent shifting.
• Use the same cut-out size for outer and lining so they nest correctly.

Practice Variations (Build Skill Without a Whole New Pattern)

• Two-tone tote: Cut the outer pieces in two horizontal sections (top and bottom) and sew them together before constructing the bag. Keep the seam straight and press well for a crisp color-block look.
• Reversible tote: Use two “outer” fabrics and skip the pocket/turning gap method by leaving an opening in one side seam instead. Topstitching becomes extra important to keep both sides neat.
• Sturdier market tote: Use canvas outer + quilting cotton lining + interfacing on the lining, and add a second row of stitching on side seams for reinforcement.