What You’re Making and Why It Works
Reusable produce bags are lightweight fabric bags designed to replace single-use plastic bags at the grocery store or market. They are meant to be easy to open, quick to fill, and secure enough to keep fruits and vegetables contained in your cart and on the way home. The key idea is simple: a breathable body (so produce stays fresh) plus a closure that cinches shut (so small items don’t spill).
In this project you’ll make a set of produce bags in a few practical sizes. You’ll use a simple rectangle-based pattern (no curves), a drawstring casing at the top, and a channel for a cord or ribbon. The construction is similar in spirit to a drawstring bag, but produce bags have a few special considerations: they should be light (so they don’t add much weight at checkout), washable, and ideally see-through enough that the cashier can identify items quickly.
Design Choices: Mesh vs. Lightweight Woven
Option A: Mesh Body (Most Common for Produce)
Mesh (such as polyester mesh, athletic mesh, or specialty produce-bag mesh) is breathable and lets cashiers see what’s inside. It also dries quickly after washing. The trade-off is that mesh can be stretchy and can snag if you’re rough with it. If your mesh is very open, tiny items (like green beans) may poke out unless the weave is tight enough.
Option B: Lightweight Woven (Cotton Voile, Lawn, or Muslin)
A lightweight woven fabric is easy to sew and less snag-prone. It can be more opaque than mesh, which some stores still accept but may slow checkout. Breathability is good if the fabric is thin. If you choose woven, keep it light so the bag doesn’t add noticeable weight.
Hybrid Option: Mesh Body + Woven Top Band
A popular beginner-friendly approach is to use mesh for the main body and add a woven band at the top. The woven band stabilizes the casing area, makes the drawstring channel easier to sew neatly, and gives you a place to add a small loop or tag if you want. This chapter focuses on that hybrid method because it produces consistent results even if your mesh is stretchy.
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Materials and Notions (Project-Specific)
- Mesh fabric for bag bodies (or lightweight woven if you prefer)
- Lightweight woven fabric for top bands (quilting cotton works, but a lighter cotton is nicer)
- Drawstring cord: thin cotton cord, nylon cord, or narrow ribbon (choose something that slides easily)
- Optional: cord lock (toggle) for each bag if you want one-handed closure
- Optional: small ribbon or twill tape for a hanging loop
Tip: If you plan to wash these often, choose cords and toggles that can handle laundering. Cotton cord and simple plastic cord locks are common. Ribbon can fray over time unless heat-sealed (synthetic) or finished (cotton).
Suggested Sizes (Make a Set)
Produce bags are most useful in a few repeatable sizes. These measurements are finished bag sizes (approximate). You’ll cut slightly larger to account for seams and the casing.
- Small: about 8 in x 10 in (great for limes, garlic, small apples)
- Medium: about 10 in x 12 in (great for oranges, onions, tomatoes)
- Large: about 12 in x 15 in (great for leafy greens, multiple apples)
If you prefer metric, you can translate these to roughly 20 x 25 cm, 25 x 30 cm, and 30 x 38 cm. Exact sizing is flexible; consistency matters more than perfection.
Pattern Pieces (Rectangle Draft)
Each bag uses two body rectangles (front and back) plus one top band rectangle that forms a loop around the opening. The band is folded in half heightwise, so its cut height is double the finished band height.
Recommended Cutting Measurements
Use these as a starting point. They assume a simple side seam and a casing formed by the folded band. If you adjust sizes, keep the band length equal to the bag width plus seam allowance.
- Small bag: Cut 2 mesh rectangles: 9 in wide x 11 in tall. Cut 1 woven band: 9 in wide x 4 in tall.
- Medium bag: Cut 2 mesh rectangles: 11 in wide x 13 in tall. Cut 1 woven band: 11 in wide x 4 in tall.
- Large bag: Cut 2 mesh rectangles: 13 in wide x 16 in tall. Cut 1 woven band: 13 in wide x 4 in tall.
Why a 4-inch-tall band? Folded in half, it becomes about 2 inches tall before seam allowances. That gives you room for a neat casing and still leaves a visible band. If you want a slimmer look, cut the band 3 inches tall instead.
Drawstring Length
For each bag, cut cord about 2 to 2.5 times the bag width. Example: for an 11-inch-wide medium bag, start with 24–28 inches of cord. Longer is easier to tie; you can trim later.
Step-by-Step: Sew the Bag Body
1) Prepare the Top Band
Take the woven band rectangle and fold it in half lengthwise (so the long edges meet), wrong sides together. Press or finger-crease. You now have a long strip that is half as tall, with a fold on one long edge and raw edges on the other long edge.
Optional but helpful: If your woven fabric frays easily, you can stitch close to the raw long edges to keep them together temporarily. This is a “basting” step and will be hidden in the seam later.
2) Attach the Band to the Mesh
Place one mesh rectangle right side up. Place the folded band on top, aligning the band’s raw long edges with the top edge of the mesh. The folded edge of the band points downward toward the center of the mesh piece. Pin or clip along the top edge.
Stitch the band to the mesh along the top edge. Repeat for the second mesh rectangle so both front and back pieces have a band attached.
Practical tip: Mesh can shift. If you find it creeping, use more clips, sew a little slower, and keep the mesh flat on the machine bed rather than letting it hang.
3) Sew Front and Back Together
Place the two bag pieces right sides together (mesh to mesh, bands aligned). Match the side edges and bottom edges. Clip around the sides and bottom, leaving the top open.
Sew down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side. Backstitch at the start and end. Keep your seam allowance consistent.
Important: Do not sew across the top opening. The casing will be formed in the band area.
4) Reinforce the Bottom Corners (Optional)
Produce bags don’t need boxed corners, but the bottom corners take stress when you carry heavier items like apples. A simple reinforcement is to stitch a short diagonal line across each bottom corner inside the seam allowance.
How: With the bag still wrong side out, flatten one bottom corner so the side seam and bottom seam line up. Stitch a 1–1.5 inch diagonal line across the point. Repeat on the other corner. This reduces strain and makes the corner less pointy.
Step-by-Step: Create the Drawstring Casing
5) Form the Casing Channel
Turn the bag right side out. At the top, you have a folded band attached to the mesh. You’ll stitch around the band to create a tunnel for the cord.
Decide where you want the drawstring to sit. A common placement is about 3/4 inch to 1 inch down from the top edge of the band. You will sew a line of stitching all the way around the bag at that distance, making sure you’re stitching through both layers of the band (front and back) but not accidentally catching the mesh in a way that puckers.
Before sewing, smooth the band so it lies flat. Clip if needed.
Sew one continuous line around the bag. This creates the bottom edge of the casing. The top edge of the casing is the bag’s top opening (the band fold and seam area). You now have a tube-like channel between the top edge and your new stitching line.
6) Add the Cord Openings
You need a way to thread the cord into the casing. The cleanest method is to create two small buttonhole-style openings on opposite sides of the band, just above the casing stitch line. If you are not making buttonholes, you can leave small gaps in the side seams at the band area, but that requires planning before sewing the side seams. The method below works after the bag is assembled.
Mark two points on the band: one on the left side seam area and one on the right side seam area, centered vertically within the casing channel (between the top edge and the casing stitch line). Keep them about 1/2 inch away from the side seam so you’re not cutting into the seam stitching.
Create openings using one of these approaches:
- Buttonhole method: Sew a small buttonhole at each mark, then open it carefully.
- Grommet/eyelet method: Install small metal eyelets (only if you have the tools and your fabric can support them).
- Reinforced slit method: Stitch a tight small rectangle around the mark, then cut a short slit inside the rectangle.
Practical note: Mesh alone doesn’t hold buttonholes well. That’s why the woven band is helpful; it gives a stable area for openings.
Step-by-Step: Insert the Drawstring
7) Thread the Cord
Attach a safety pin or bodkin to one end of the cord. Insert it into one opening and guide it through the casing all the way around until it comes back out the same opening (for a single-loop drawstring) or out the opposite opening (for a two-end drawstring). Both work; choose based on how you want the bag to close.
- Single-loop drawstring: Cord goes in and comes back out the same side. Pulling one end cinches; the loop stays continuous.
- Two-end drawstring: Cord goes in one side and exits the other. Pulling both ends cinches evenly and is easy to tie.
For beginners, the two-end drawstring is straightforward: insert at one opening, travel around, and exit the other opening.
8) Secure the Cord Ends
Decide how you want to finish the ends:
- Simple knot: Tie an overhand knot at each end to prevent fraying and keep the cord from slipping back into the casing.
- Cord lock: Thread both ends through a cord lock and knot the ends below it.
- Bow-friendly finish: If using ribbon, angle-cut the ends and seal them appropriately for the ribbon type.
Test the closure by pulling the ends. The top should gather evenly. If it bunches more on one side, gently redistribute the fabric around the casing by sliding it along the cord.
Optional Upgrades (Choose One or Two)
Add a Hanging Loop
A small loop makes the bag easy to hang on a hook at home. Cut a short piece of ribbon or twill tape, fold into a loop, and insert it into the top seam when attaching the band to the mesh (Step 2), positioned at a side seam. Stitch it into the seam so it’s anchored securely.
Add a Label Patch (No Bulk)
If you want to label sizes, avoid thick tags that add weight or scratch produce. A small scrap of lightweight fabric stitched onto the band works well. Keep it minimal and place it away from the cord openings.
Make a Flat Bottom (Boxed Corners)
If you want the bag to stand up for bulky produce, you can box the corners. With the bag wrong side out, pinch a bottom corner so the side seam aligns with the bottom seam, then measure in from the point and stitch across. The wider the stitch line, the wider the base. Repeat for the other corner. This uses a little more fabric and slightly reduces height.
Practical Examples: Adjusting for Different Produce
Example 1: Leafy Greens Bag
Leafy greens are light but bulky. Make a large bag with a taller body and a slightly wider band so the opening is generous. Consider a longer cord so you can cinch and tie without crushing delicate leaves.
Example 2: Small Items Bag (Ginger, Garlic, Limes)
Small items can slip out of very open mesh. Choose a tighter mesh or lightweight woven fabric. Keep the bag small so items don’t rattle around. A cord lock is useful here because it closes tightly with less fuss.
Example 3: Heavy Items Bag (Apples, Potatoes)
For heavier produce, reinforce the bottom corners and consider slightly wider seam allowances. Use a strong cord and make sure the casing stitching is secure. If you notice strain at the cord openings, enlarge the woven band height so there’s more fabric supporting the openings.
Quality Checks While You Sew
Check the Casing Before Threading
Before inserting the cord, run your finger through the casing channel to feel for accidental catches where the band might have been stitched to the mesh. If the channel is blocked, unpick a small section and resew to restore a clear tunnel.
Check Symmetry at the Top
Lay the bag flat and make sure the band height looks even on both sides. If one side is taller, it usually means the band shifted while attaching. This is mostly cosmetic, but you can improve it on the next bag by clipping more and sewing with the band on the bottom against the feed dogs for better control.
Check Cord Openings for Strength
Gently tug the cord near each opening. If the fabric puckers or the opening stretches, reinforce by stitching a small tight rectangle around the opening area (on the band) and try again.
Care and Use Notes (So the Bags Last)
Wash produce bags regularly, especially after carrying unwashed produce. Mesh dries quickly; woven bags may take longer. If your cord is cotton, it may shrink slightly the first wash, so avoid cutting cords too short at the start. If you use cord locks, check that they tolerate your wash temperature.
At the store, keep a few bags folded in your tote. To speed up checkout, choose mesh or a light fabric that shows the contents clearly. If you make multiple sizes, consider using different band colors so you can grab the right size quickly.
Cut List Summary (Quick Reference)
SMALL (finished ~8x10 in) Mesh: 2 @ 9x11 in Band: 1 @ 9x4 in Cord: 20–24 in MEDIUM (finished ~10x12 in) Mesh: 2 @ 11x13 in Band: 1 @ 11x4 in Cord: 24–28 in LARGE (finished ~12x15 in) Mesh: 2 @ 13x16 in Band: 1 @ 13x4 in Cord: 28–34 in
