Practical Fabric Selection for Common Garment Types

How to Translate a Pattern Into a Fabric Choice

This chapter focuses on applying what you already know about fabric behavior to real garment categories. The goal is to choose a fabric that supports the garment’s stress points (necklines, armholes, knees, seat, hems), the intended silhouette, and the construction techniques you plan to use (interfacing, seam finishes, pressing).

A practical selection workflow (use for any garment)

• Step 1: Identify the garment’s “demand zones.” List where the garment will be pulled, rubbed, or shaped (e.g., tee neckline, trouser knees, coat lapels).
• Step 2: Decide the silhouette requirement. Do you need the fabric to hold a crisp shape, skim the body, or flow?
• Step 3: Match construction to fabric. Confirm the fabric can accept the seam finish, interfacing, and pressing temperature you’ll need.
• Step 4: Test with quick samples. Make a small swatch test: stitch a 15 cm seam, press it, try your intended finish, and tug the seam to see if it tunnels, ripples, or frays excessively.

1) Tops: Tees, Blouses, Shirts

T-shirts (knit tops)

What the fabric must do: stretch comfortably at the neckline, across shoulders, and at the bicep; recover so neckbands and hems don’t grow; press without shine or distortion.

Recommended knit options (practical picks):

• Cotton/spandex jersey (everyday tee): stable enough to sew, good recovery for neckbands.
• Viscose/rayon jersey (drapier tee): soft hand and fluid fall; needs good recovery or it may “grow” at hems and necklines.
• Interlock (cleaner look): thicker, more opaque, and stable; good for beginners and for necklines that must stay crisp.
• Piqué knit (polo style): textured, more body; works well with collars and plackets.

Neckline and armhole considerations for tees

• Neckband success depends on recovery. If the fabric has weak recovery, the neckline can wave or gape. Choose a rib knit for the band or stabilize the seam with clear elastic.
• Armholes need controlled stretch. Very stretchy knits can ripple at armholes; consider a narrow stabilizing strip (clear elastic or knit stay tape) in the seam allowance.
• Pressing matters. Use a press cloth and avoid dragging the iron; lift-and-press to prevent stretching edges.

Blouses (woven tops)

What the fabric must do: provide enough opacity for the design, handle gathers/pleats without bulk, and support closures (buttons, plackets) without collapsing.

Recommended woven options:

Continue in our app.

You can listen to the audiobook with the screen off, receive a free certificate for this course, and also have access to 5,000 other free online courses.

Or continue reading below...

Download the app

• Poplin (crisp blouse): holds shape for collars and cuffs; easy to press.
• Voile or lawn (light blouse): breathable and fine; may need lining or careful undergarment planning for opacity.
• Challis (soft blouse): drapey and comfortable; needs careful handling at button plackets and necklines.
• Silk crepe de chine or polyester crepe (dressy blouse): fluid with good surface interest; seam finishes should be neat due to potential sheerness.

Neckline and armhole considerations for blouses

• Bias-prone edges need stabilization. Many blouse necklines include curved or bias sections; plan for staystitching and/or lightweight fusible interfacing at facings.
• Armholes show every ripple. If the fabric is very soft, use a well-shaped facing or bias binding and press on a tailor’s ham to maintain curve.
• Sheer fabrics demand clean finishes. Consider French seams or narrow rolled hems where appropriate.

Shirts (woven button-front)

What the fabric must do: support collars/cuffs, tolerate repeated laundering, and resist abrasion at underarms and side seams.

Recommended woven options:

• Shirting cotton (broadcloth, poplin): classic structure for collars and plackets.
• Oxford cloth: slightly heavier with texture; durable and forgiving.
• Tencel/lyocell twill: softer, more drape; still presses well, but may show topstitching impressions if over-pressed.

Construction note: Choose interfacing that matches the shirt fabric’s body. A very stiff interfacing on a soft shirt fabric can create a “cardboard collar” effect; a too-soft interfacing on crisp poplin can collapse.

2) Bottoms: Trousers, Jeans, Skirts

Trousers (tailored or casual)

What the fabric must do: resist abrasion at inner thighs, hold shape at knees and seat, and recover after sitting. It must also press well for creases (if desired) and support pocket openings.

Recommended options by style:

• Tailored trousers: wool twill, wool blend suiting, gabardine (good crease retention and recovery).
• Casual trousers: cotton twill/chino, linen blends (comfortable; may wrinkle more).
• Pull-on trousers: stable ponte knit or stretch woven with good recovery (helps prevent bagging at knees).

Abrasion resistance and recovery: what to check before cutting

• Rub test: rub the fabric against itself firmly for 15–20 seconds; look for pilling or fuzzing (a warning for inner-thigh wear).
• Knee-bag test: pull the fabric on the crosswise direction, hold 10 seconds, release; if it stays stretched, expect bagging at knees/seat.
• Press test: press a folded edge; if it refuses to hold a crease (or shines easily), adjust expectations for tailored details.

Jeans

What the fabric must do: withstand high abrasion, support topstitching, and tolerate stress at crotch seams and pocket corners.

• Recommended: denim (cotton or cotton blend). For comfort, choose a denim with a small percentage of elastane and strong recovery.
• Structure note: heavier denim supports classic jeans details (flat-felled seams, heavy topstitching). Lighter denim can work for “jean-style trousers” but may not hold crisp topstitching as well.
• Practical check: stitch a sample with your intended needle/thread; if skipped stitches occur, adjust needle type/size or choose a slightly less dense denim.

Skirts (straight, A-line, gathered)

What the fabric must do: hang smoothly from the waist/hip area, resist wrinkling or stretching at the waistband, and suit the hem type.

• Straight/pencil skirts: suiting, stretch woven twill, ponte (needs recovery for sitting and walking).
• A-line skirts: poplin, twill, light denim, linen blends (benefit from some body to hold the shape).
• Gathered skirts: voile, lawn, challis, crepe (avoid bulky fabrics that create a thick waist seam).

Waistline stress point: If the skirt has a fitted waist, choose a fabric that supports a stable waistband or plan for interfacing that matches the fabric’s weight and drape.

3) Dresses: Fitted vs Flowy

Fitted dresses (sheath, princess seams, structured bodice)

What the fabric must do: support shaping seams, resist seam slippage, and maintain a smooth surface over the body. It must also handle closures (zippers) cleanly.

Recommended options:

• Suiting (wool blend, gabardine): excellent seam support and pressing response.
• Stretch woven suiting: adds comfort; ensure recovery so the dress doesn’t bag at seat/knees.
• Ponte knit: stable knit option for fitted silhouettes; reduces need for complex seam finishes.

Seam support checklist for fitted dresses (step-by-step)

• Step 1: Sew a sample princess seam or dart on a scrap and press it as you would in the garment.
• Step 2: Tug gently along the seam line; if stitches sink in or the seam looks stressed, consider a sturdier fabric, a different stitch length, or adding seam reinforcement (e.g., stay tape in key areas).
• Step 3: Test the zipper insertion on a scrap; very soft fabrics can ripple—plan for interfacing along the zipper opening.

Flowy dresses (wrap, tiered, bias-skirted, relaxed silhouettes)

What the fabric must do: drape attractively, avoid clinging in unwanted areas, and provide enough opacity for movement and light.

Recommended options:

• Challis and crepe: fluid movement; excellent for tiers and soft gathers.
• Viscose/lyocell wovens: beautiful drape; handle gently to avoid stretching edges during sewing.
• Georgette (often sheer): airy; typically requires lining or layering plans.

Opacity and movement planning

• Walk-and-window test: hold fabric doubled and single-layer up to light; then drape it over your hand to see how much silhouette shows in motion.
• Consider seam allowances showing through. In light fabrics, bulky seam finishes can shadow; choose narrow/clean finishes.
• Wrap dresses need stability at edges. If the wrap edge is bias or very drapey, stabilize with stay tape or a well-interfaced facing to prevent stretching.

4) Outer Layers: Lightweight Jackets and Coats

Lightweight jackets (utility jacket, bomber, unlined blazer-style)

What the fabric must do: provide “body” (so it doesn’t collapse), tolerate topstitching, and press into shape without bubbling. It must also work with interfacing at collars, facings, and pocket flaps.

Recommended options:

• Cotton twill or canvas (lighter weights): durable, structured, great for topstitching.
• Denim (lighter to midweight): classic jacket look; supports seams and hardware.
• Wool blend coating (light coating): more tailored appearance; presses well with proper tools.
• Ponte or stable knit (for a soft jacket): comfortable; choose patterns designed for knits or simplified tailoring details.

Coats

What the fabric must do: hold a sculpted shape, support heavy seams, and respond predictably to pressing (steam, clapper, shaping). It also must pair well with interfacing and possibly underlining.

• Recommended: wool coating, melton, boiled wool (note: boiled wool edges can be treated differently; test seam finishes), heavy tweeds (consider bulk at seams).
• Lining compatibility: ensure the coat fabric and lining move together; very “grabby” coat fabrics may need a smoother lining for ease of wear.

Interfacing compatibility and pressing demands (practical checks)

• Fuse test first: apply interfacing to a scrap using your planned heat/steam/time. If you see bubbling, shine, or texture change, switch interfacing type/weight or use sew-in interfacing.
• Pressing tools matter: thicker fabrics often need steam plus a clapper to set shape; delicate surfaces may need a press cloth to avoid shine.
• Bulk management: test a seam intersection (e.g., collar stand + facing + outer fabric). If it becomes too thick to stitch cleanly, choose a lighter fabric or reduce layers via pattern/cutting choices.

5) Fabric Selection Matrix (Quick Reference)

Use this matrix to shortlist fabrics, then confirm with swatch tests for your specific pattern details (neckline finish, zipper, button placket, topstitching, hem).

Mini “pattern-to-fabric” checklist you can print

1) Identify stress points: neckline/armhole? knees/seat? closures? pocket openings? 2) Confirm silhouette: crisp / skimming / fluid 3) Confirm construction: interfacing? topstitching? seam finish? pressing needs? 4) Swatch test: stitch + press + tug + wash (if washable) 5) Buy extra if fabric is directional, napped, or requires matching