Free Ebook cover Start a Small Fashion Brand: From Idea to First Collection

Start a Small Fashion Brand: From Idea to First Collection

New course

11 pages

Planning Your First Fashion Collection: Cohesive Range, Assortment, and Timeline

Capítulo 4

Estimated reading time: 8 minutes

+ Exercise

What a “Cohesive, Sellable” First Collection Actually Means

Your first collection is not a full wardrobe and it’s not a creative dump of every idea you have. It’s a small set of products that: (1) clearly belongs together, (2) is simple enough to produce reliably, and (3) gives customers a few clear buying paths (one “must-have” plus easy add-ons).

A cohesive collection usually shares:

  • A clear silhouette family (similar proportions and styling language)
  • A limited color palette (2–4 core colors plus 0–1 accent)
  • A tight material story (1–3 main fabrics, consistent weights/handfeel)
  • Repeatable details (same zipper type, same button, same topstitch color, same label placement)

A sellable collection usually has:

  • One hero piece that communicates the brand and earns attention
  • Supporting styles that make the hero wearable and increase average order value
  • Optional add-ons that are low-risk (simple construction, minimal new materials)

Step-by-Step: Build a Tight Assortment (Hero + Support + Add-ons)

Step 1: Choose your hero piece (the “anchor”)

Your hero piece should be the most “you” item and the one you can market visually. It can be the most complex item in the range, but it must still be producible within your budget and timeline.

Good hero piece traits:

Continue in our app.

You can listen to the audiobook with the screen off, receive a free certificate for this course, and also have access to 5,000 other free online courses.

Or continue reading below...
Download App

Download the app

  • Photographs well (shape, movement, detail)
  • Has a clear reason to exist (fit, function, fabric, detail)
  • Can be offered in 1–2 colorways without losing impact
  • Doesn’t require 6 unique trims to feel premium

Examples: a signature wide-leg trouser, a structured overshirt, a slip dress with a distinctive neckline, a cropped jacket with a recognizable seam line.

Step 2: Add 2–4 supporting styles (the “wearability engine”)

Supporting styles should make it easy for a customer to build an outfit around the hero. These are often simpler items that share fabrics or trims with the hero.

Supporting style roles (pick 2–3):

  • Pairing piece: goes directly with the hero (e.g., trouser + shirt)
  • Layering piece: adds styling options (e.g., knit top, overshirt)
  • Everyday staple: increases conversion (e.g., tee, tank) but keep it brand-right
  • Occasion bridge: makes the hero wearable in more contexts (e.g., day-to-night top)

Step 3: Add 0–2 optional add-ons (low-risk revenue)

Add-ons should be easy to produce and ideally use existing materials. They give customers choice without exploding complexity.

Good add-ons:

  • Simple tote in the same canvas as a jacket lining or pocketing
  • Scarf using the same fabric family (or a single new fabric)
  • Cap or belt if you already have a reliable trim supplier

Avoid for first collection: items requiring new factories, complex grading, or specialized machinery (e.g., bras, swim with bonded seams, heavily tailored blazers) unless you already have proven production support.

Build Cohesion: Palette, Materials, and Repeatable Details

1) Color palette: limit choices, increase confidence

A small palette makes the range feel intentional and reduces SKU sprawl. A practical first-collection palette:

  • 2 neutrals: e.g., black + ecru, navy + stone
  • 1 signature color: e.g., olive, rust, cobalt
  • Optional accent: used sparingly (lining, stitch, small accessory)

Rule of thumb: if you can’t describe your palette in one sentence, it’s too big.

2) Materials: choose a “material story” you can actually produce

Materials drive cost, lead time, and quality risk. For a first collection, aim for 1–3 main fabrics plus a small set of supporting materials (lining, pocketing, rib, interfacing).

Example material story:

  • Main woven: midweight cotton twill (trousers + overshirt)
  • Secondary woven: lightweight poplin (shirt)
  • Knit: cotton jersey (tee/tank)

Why this works: you can share thread colors, care labels, size labels, and often the same buttons across multiple styles.

3) Balance complexity: reduce unique trims and construction types

Complexity hides in “small” decisions. Every unique trim, finish, or construction method adds sourcing time, minimums, and sampling risk.

Complexity checklist (keep it tight):

  • Zippers: 1 type, 1–2 lengths max
  • Buttons: 1–2 sizes, same color family
  • Thread: 1 main topstitch color per palette
  • Labels: one main label + one care/size system across all styles
  • Interfacing: 1–2 types max
  • Wash/finish: avoid multiple garment washes unless essential

Practical rule: if a new detail requires a new supplier, treat it as a “feature” and justify it. If it’s just decoration, cut it.

Mini Line Plan: A Simple Format You Can Use Immediately

A line plan is your collection on one page. It forces clarity: what you’re making, in what colors, in what sizes, at what cost, and how many units you expect to sell.

Recommended first-collection size

  • 3–7 styles total
  • 1–2 colorways per style
  • One size range per category (don’t split into multiple fits yet)

Mini line plan table (example)

Style nameCategoryColorwaysSizesTarget cost (COGS)Target priceExpected units
Arc TrouserBottomBlack, StoneXS–XL$38$128180
Field OvershirtOuter/LayerStoneXS–XL$42$148120
Clean Poplin ShirtTop (woven)White, BlueXS–XL$24$98160
Everyday TeeTop (knit)Ecru, BlackXS–XL$10$48220
Canvas Tote (Add-on)AccessoryStoneOne size$6$28200

How to set target cost and price quickly:

  • Pick a target retail price you believe your customer will pay for that category.
  • Work backward to a target COGS that supports your margin needs.
  • Use the target COGS to control fabric choices, trims, and construction.

Simple pricing guardrail: if your target cost is creeping up, reduce complexity (fewer pockets, simpler closures, fewer panels) before raising price.

Decision Framework: Keep It Small While Still Offering Choice

Customers want choice, but they don’t need 20 options. Use this framework to decide what stays and what goes.

The “Choice Without Chaos” framework

  • Choice comes from styling paths, not SKUs: one trouser + one shirt + one layer can create multiple outfits even with limited colors.
  • Limit choice to one dimension at a time: if you offer 2 colorways, keep the silhouette constant. If you offer 2 fits, keep one colorway.
  • Repeat the same best idea: a signature seam line can appear on trouser + overshirt, creating identity without new development.

A practical scoring method (use before sampling)

Score each proposed style from 1–5 (5 is best) and keep only the highest total scores.

CriteriaQuestion
Brand clarityDoes it instantly feel like your brand?
Outfit usefulnessDoes it pair with at least 2 other styles in the line?
Production simplicityCan it be made with existing fabrics/trims and standard machinery?
Margin potentialCan you hit target cost at acceptable quality?
Marketing strengthWill it photograph and sell the story?

Cut rules:

  • If a style introduces a new fabric + new trim + new factory process, it must be the hero (or it’s cut).
  • If two styles serve the same role (e.g., two similar tops), keep the one with better margin and simpler production.
  • If you can’t describe why it exists in one sentence, it’s not ready.

Timeline: From Design to Launch (Realistic First-Collection Plan)

Timelines vary by factory, complexity, and whether you’re producing locally or overseas. The structure below is a realistic sequence to plan around. Build buffer time into every step.

Phase 1: Design lock and tech readiness (Weeks 1–3)

  • Week 1: finalize assortment (hero + support + add-ons), confirm palette, confirm material story
  • Week 2: finalize sketches and construction decisions (closures, pockets, seam finishes)
  • Week 3: prepare tech packs and BOM (bill of materials) targets for each style

Design lock definition: silhouette, key details, and target cost are fixed. After this point, changes must be justified by fit or production feasibility.

Phase 2: Sampling and first fit (Weeks 4–7)

  • Week 4: order sample yardage and trims (only what you need for prototypes)
  • Weeks 5–6: first prototypes made
  • Week 7: first fit session; document issues and changes

Tip: schedule fit sessions before samples arrive so you don’t lose a week waiting for calendars to align.

Phase 3: Revisions and size set (Weeks 8–11)

  • Weeks 8–9: revised samples (fit corrections, construction simplification)
  • Week 10: second fit; approve pattern direction
  • Week 11: size set sample (key sizes) or grading check, depending on your process

Control complexity here: if you’re behind schedule, remove non-essential details rather than forcing rushed fixes.

Phase 4: Production prep (Weeks 12–14)

  • Week 12: finalize materials (bulk fabric/trim orders), confirm lead times and minimums
  • Week 13: pre-production sample (PPS) or production-ready approval sample
  • Week 14: production booking, packaging specs confirmed (bags, boxes, hangtags if used)

Phase 5: Production and quality control (Weeks 15–20)

  • Weeks 15–18: bulk production
  • Week 19: in-line or final QC checks; resolve issues
  • Week 20: goods received (or shipped), inventory count and organization

Buffer recommendation: add 10–20% time buffer for production if this is your first run with a factory.

Phase 6: Photography, product pages, and launch prep (Weeks 16–22, overlapping)

  • Weeks 16–17: plan shoot (shot list by style/colorway, model casting, location, styling)
  • Weeks 18–19: photography (ideally using approved samples or early production units)
  • Weeks 19–21: edit images, write product descriptions, finalize size charts, upload SKUs
  • Weeks 21–22: launch prep (email flows, inventory checks, packaging workflow, customer support templates)

Key dependency: don’t wait for all production to arrive to start photography planning. Overlap tasks to protect your launch date.

How to Use This Chapter as a Working Plan

1-page collection brief (fill-in template)

Hero piece: ____________________________  (1–2 colorways)  Target price: ________  Target COGS: ________  Units: ________
Supporting styles (2–4):
1) ____________________  Role: pairing/layer/staple/bridge  Colorways: ________  Units: ________
2) ____________________  Role: pairing/layer/staple/bridge  Colorways: ________  Units: ________
3) ____________________  Role: pairing/layer/staple/bridge  Colorways: ________  Units: ________
Add-ons (0–2):
1) ____________________  Uses existing materials? yes/no  Units: ________

Palette (2–4 colors): __________________________________________
Main fabrics (1–3): ____________________________________________
Standard trims (keep minimal): zipper type ________  button ________  thread ________  labels ________

Milestones:
Design lock: ____/____  First sample: ____/____  Fit #1: ____/____  Revised sample: ____/____  PPS: ____/____
Production start: ____/____  Goods in hand: ____/____  Photo shoot: ____/____  Launch: ____/____

Fast sanity checks before you commit

  • SKU count check: total SKUs (styles × colorways × sizes) is manageable for inventory and fulfillment.
  • Material check: each new style shares at least one main fabric or trim with another style.
  • Factory check: you’re not asking one factory to do wildly different product types unless they’re proven in those categories.
  • Merchandising check: every style has a clear role (hero, pairing, layer, staple, add-on).

Now answer the exercise about the content:

Which approach best follows the “choice without chaos” guidance for a first fashion collection?

You are right! Congratulations, now go to the next page

You missed! Try again.

The framework recommends offering choice through styling paths, not lots of SKUs. Keep a limited palette and vary only one dimension at a time (e.g., colorways or fit) to avoid complexity.

Next chapter

Design Development for a Small Fashion Brand: Tech Packs, Materials, and Fit Basics

Arrow Right Icon
Download the app to earn free Certification and listen to the courses in the background, even with the screen off.