Design Development for a Small Fashion Brand: Tech Packs, Materials, and Fit Basics

What “minimum design documentation” means (and why it matters)

When you move from sketching ideas to producing garments consistently, you need a shared set of instructions that stays the same even when people change (pattern maker, sample room, factory, or you). “Minimum design documentation” is the smallest set of information that allows someone else to make your product the same way every time, with predictable fit, materials, and finishing.

At a minimum, you need:

• A clear visual of the garment (front/back flats).
• A spec (measurements with tolerances).
• Construction direction (how it’s built and finished).
• Bill of materials (fabric + trims + labels + packaging).
• Colorways and artwork placement (if any).
• Fit intent (how it should feel on the body) and a process to approve changes.

This documentation usually lives in a tech pack. For a small brand, a “simple tech pack” can be 4–10 pages per style and still be production-ready.

Simple tech pack: components you should include

1) Flats (technical drawings)

Flats are clean line drawings that show the garment clearly without artistic styling. They help the pattern maker and factory understand shape, seam placement, and details.

• Include: front + back flats; add side view if needed.
• Callouts: point to key details (pocket shape, zipper length, stitch type, label placement).
• Detail views: add close-ups for tricky areas (collar stand, placket, waistband, pocket opening).

Tip: If you can’t draw, use a clean vector template or a photo of a prototype annotated with arrows—just keep it unambiguous.

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2) Measurements/spec sheet (POMs + tolerances)

A spec sheet lists points of measure (POMs) and target measurements for each size. It is the main tool to control fit and consistency.

• Sample size spec: start with one size (your sample size) and define all POMs.
• Graded spec: once fit is approved, add the full size range with grade rules (how measurements change between sizes).
• Tolerances: acceptable variation (e.g., ±0.5 cm at chest width). Tolerances prevent unnecessary rejections while still protecting fit.

Practical step-by-step to build a first spec:

• Choose the sample size (see fit section below).
• List 10–20 key POMs that control fit and proportion (don’t measure everything).
• Define how each POM is taken (e.g., “Chest width measured 2.5 cm below armhole, laid flat”).
• Set target measurements based on your intended fit and a reference garment you like.
• Add tolerances (start conservative; adjust after sampling reality).

3) Construction notes (how it’s made)

Construction notes translate your design intent into build instructions. They reduce back-and-forth and sampling mistakes.

• Seam types: overlock + topstitch, French seam, flat-felled seam, etc.
• Stitch details: SPI (stitches per inch) or stitch length, thread color, needle type if special.
• Seam allowance: specify if non-standard (otherwise factory uses their default).
• Reinforcements: bartacks, stay tape, interfacing placement, pocket bag reinforcement.
• Finishing: hem type, edge binding, label attachment method.

Tip: Write notes in a way that a sample sewer can follow without guessing. If you don’t know the exact method, specify the outcome (e.g., “clean finish inside neckline, no raw edges visible”).

4) Fabric and trim details (BOM: bill of materials)

Your BOM is the shopping list and the quality standard. It should include what the material is, how it performs, and how it’s used.

• Fabric: fiber content, construction (woven/knit), weight (GSM or oz/yd²), width, finish (brushed, enzyme wash), color, supplier, and code.
• Trims: zippers, buttons, snaps, elastic, drawcord, thread, interfacing, labels, hangtags.
• Placement + consumption: where each trim goes and approximate usage (e.g., “1 zipper, 18 cm”).

Practical step-by-step to document a fabric:

• Record supplier name, fabric code, and color code (do not rely on “navy” alone).
• Write weight and composition from the supplier spec.
• Note performance needs (stretch %, recovery, opacity, pilling resistance).
• Specify care intent (machine wash cold, line dry, etc.).
• Attach a physical swatch to your internal binder and reference it in the tech pack.

5) Colorways

Colorways define which colors the style will be produced in and what changes per color (fabric, thread, trims, labels).

• List each colorway (e.g., Black, Ecru, Olive).
• Specify matching components: thread color, zipper tape color, button finish.
• Use color standards: Pantone (or supplier lab dips) to reduce mismatch.

6) Labels (brand, care, size) and placement

Labels are part compliance, brand experience, and production clarity. Your tech pack should specify:

• Label types: main label, size label, care/content label (and country of origin if required for your market).
• Material: woven, printed satin, heat transfer.
• Dimensions: width/height and fold type.
• Placement: exact location (e.g., “center back neck, caught in neck seam”).
• Attachment: stitch type, thread color.

Note: Legal labeling requirements vary by country; document what you intend to include and confirm compliance for your selling markets before bulk production.

7) Packaging requirements

Packaging affects cost, presentation, and warehouse efficiency. Even a small brand should specify the basics so the factory packs consistently.

• Folding method: flat fold, tissue, insert card.
• Polybag: size, thickness, suffocation warning (if used), resealable or not.
• Size sticker: location and format.
• Hangtag: attached or packed loose; string type.
• Carton packing: units per carton, carton dimensions, carton markings (if needed).

Materials selection: what to evaluate before sampling

Fabric weight and drape

Weight (often in GSM) strongly affects how a garment hangs, how opaque it is, and how it feels. Two fabrics with the same fiber content can behave very differently.

• Lightweight: more drape, may need lining, can show seams and pocket bags.
• Midweight: versatile, easier to sew cleanly, often best for first production runs.
• Heavyweight: structured, warmer, may require stronger needles and different seam finishing.

Practical check: Hang a 30×30 cm swatch over a hanger and compare drape to your intended silhouette. If it collapses when you want structure, it’s the wrong weight/finish.

Stretch, recovery, and ease

Stretch changes pattern requirements and fit expectations.

• Woven with no stretch: needs more wearing ease and often closures (zip/button).
• Mechanical stretch: slight give from weave; still behaves like a woven.
• Knit or elastane blend: requires stretch % and recovery targets; necklines and waistbands may need stabilizing.

Practical step-by-step: quick stretch test (basic)

• Mark 10 cm on the fabric along the direction of stretch.
• Stretch comfortably (don’t yank) and measure the new length.
• Stretch % = (stretched length − 10) / 10 × 100.
• Release and see if it returns close to 10 cm (recovery). Poor recovery leads to bagging at knees/elbows/necklines.

Shrinkage and dimensional stability

Shrinkage can destroy fit if you don’t plan for it. Even “pre-shrunk” fabrics can move.

• Ask the supplier for shrinkage data (warp/weft) and finishing method.
• Test at home with a larger swatch using your intended care method.
• Decide whether you will cut larger to account for shrinkage or require pre-washing/compacting from the mill.

Practical step-by-step: simple shrink test

• Cut a 35×35 cm swatch.
• Mark a 30×30 cm square with a fabric pen (measure precisely).
• Wash/dry as intended for the final garment.
• Re-measure the square; calculate shrink % in both directions.

Care requirements and customer reality

Care instructions should match how your customer actually lives. If the fabric requires dry clean only, that’s a product decision that affects returns and satisfaction.

• Confirm if the fabric can handle machine wash without excessive shrink, twisting, or color bleed.
• Check colorfastness risk for dark shades and saturated colors.
• Consider pilling risk for brushed knits and blends.

Sourcing basics: minimums, lead times, and communication

Minimums (MOQs) and what they really mean

Suppliers often have different minimums for different things:

• Fabric MOQ: per color, per roll, or per order.
• Trim MOQ: buttons by the thousand, labels by the roll, zippers by batch.
• Dye/print MOQ: higher minimums and longer lead times.

Practical approach: For early runs, prioritize stock fabrics and trims with low MOQs, and reserve custom dye/print for later when volumes justify it.

Lead times: plan backwards from your sampling calendar

Lead time includes more than shipping. Typical components:

• Supplier response time and quoting
• Lab dips/strike-offs (for color approval)
• Production time (weaving/knitting/dyeing/finishing)
• Freight + customs clearance (if applicable)

Rule of thumb: If you don’t have the fabric in hand, you don’t have a reliable sampling schedule. Build your tech pack and request swatches early.

Supplier communication: what to send and what to ask

Clear communication reduces mistakes and speeds up decisions.

Send:

• Fabric requirements (fiber, weight range, stretch %, finish, end use)
• Color targets (Pantone or physical reference)
• Estimated usage (meters/yards) and timeline
• Shipping destination and required incoterms if you use them

Ask:

• MOQ per color and price breaks
• Available stock colors and current inventory
• Lead time for swatches, lab dips, and bulk
• Shrinkage, width, and care recommendations
• Testing certificates if relevant to your market (e.g., restricted substances)

Email template snippet (adapt):

Hi [Name], I’m developing a [garment type] for a small run. I’m looking for a [woven/knit] fabric with: - Composition: [e.g., 97% cotton 3% elastane] - Weight: [e.g., 240–280 GSM] - Stretch: [e.g., 10–15% weft] - Finish/handfeel: [e.g., soft peach, not shiny] Please share: MOQ per color, price at [X] meters, available stock colors, lead time to ship swatches, and bulk lead time. Also confirm width, shrinkage, and care recommendations. Shipping to: [City, Country]. Thank you, [Name]

Fit fundamentals for small brands

Deciding your size range (practical, not aspirational)

Your size range affects pattern work, grading complexity, inventory, and customer satisfaction. Choose a range you can execute well.

• Start narrower if resources are limited (e.g., XS–XL) and expand when fit is proven.
• Match the product category: a relaxed tee can tolerate more fit flexibility than tailored trousers.
• Be consistent: define what your “M” means across styles (fit intent and key body measurements).

Choosing a sample size

The sample size is the base size used to develop the pattern and fit. Common choices are size M (or a market’s standard base size) because it sits near the middle of the range and grades more predictably.

• Choose the size that best represents your target customer and expected sales distribution.
• If your brand focuses on a specific body type, choose a base size that reflects that reality (not generic industry defaults).

Points of measure (POMs): define them clearly

POMs must be measurable the same way by different people. Ambiguity causes disputes and inconsistent production.

Common POMs (examples):

• Chest width (flat)
• Waist width (flat)
• Hip width (flat)
• Body length (HPS to hem)
• Shoulder width
• Sleeve length
• Bicep width
• Armhole straight
• Neck opening
• Hem opening

Best practice: Add a short “how to measure” note for each POM and keep it consistent across styles.

How to run a fit session (step-by-step)

A fit session is a structured review of the sample on a fit model (or yourself, if necessary) to identify changes for the next sample iteration.

Step-by-step fit session workflow:

• 1) Prepare: bring the tech pack, printed spec sheet, measuring tape, pins/clips, camera/phone, and a fit log.
• 2) Confirm sample identity: style number, sample size, fabric used, and any deviations from the tech pack.
• 3) Check overall intent first: silhouette, length, proportion, comfort. Don’t start by measuring.
• 4) Measure key POMs on-body and off-body: compare to spec; note where the garment “feels” wrong even if measurements match (fabric behavior can be the cause).
• 5) Diagnose issues: separate pattern problems (shape/length) from construction problems (seam puckering, stretching, incorrect stitch).
• 6) Pin and mark: pin out excess, mark new seam lines, note how much to add/remove (e.g., “take in side seam 1 cm each side at waist, blend to hem”).
• 7) Photograph systematically: front/side/back, plus close-ups of issues; include a note card in the photo with the issue number if possible.
• 8) Write clear comments: translate observations into actionable pattern changes and construction corrections.
• 9) Decide next sample type: fit sample (pattern changes), PP sample (pre-production in correct materials), or size set (multiple sizes).

Tip: Keep a single “source of truth” fit log per style so you don’t lose decisions across emails and messages.

Practical example: simple tech pack outline for one garment

Example garment: Women’s boxy woven short-sleeve shirt (Style: WS-001)

Example: spec table (sample size M)

Checklist: avoid sampling delays and preventable mistakes

Before you request a sample

• Tech pack has a style code, version number, and date.
• Flats show front/back and any complex details as close-ups.
• Spec sheet includes how to measure notes for each POM.
• Tolerances are included (even if preliminary).
• Construction notes specify seam/finish expectations (or outcome-based notes).
• BOM lists fabric + trims with supplier codes (not just descriptions).
• Colorways list thread/trim matching requirements.
• Label artwork files are ready (or clearly marked “TBD” with a date).
• Packaging requirements are stated (even basic).
• You have confirmed sample lead time and what the factory needs from you to start.

When sending materials to the factory

• Swatches are labeled with fabric code, color, and intended use (shell/lining/pocketing).
• Trims are counted and include spares (buttons, zippers, labels).
• Any special instructions are written (e.g., “do not fuse entire front panel”).
• You confirm whether the factory will source substitutes if something is missing (and whether they must ask first).

When you receive the sample

• Measure key POMs and compare to spec; record deviations.
• Check construction against notes (seam types, topstitch placement, reinforcements).
• Confirm fabric behavior (sheerness, wrinkling, stretch, shrink risk).
• Photograph and log issues with clear, actionable comments.
• Update the tech pack version and resend a single consolidated revision (avoid scattered messages).