Goat Farming 101: Setting Goals and Choosing the Right Goats

Start With Your Goal: What Do You Want Your Goats to Do?

Choosing the “right” goats is less about finding a popular breed and more about matching animals to your purpose, land, time, and budget. Use this chapter as a decision guide: define your primary goal, translate it into selection criteria (breed category + individual traits), then use a buying checklist to avoid common mistakes.

Step 1: Pick One Primary Goal (and a Secondary Goal)

Most herds can do more than one job, but purchases go smoother when you choose one main purpose and one “nice-to-have.” Examples: milk + pets, meat + brush control, fiber + breeding stock. If you try to maximize everything at once, you often end up with goats that are average at all jobs and harder to manage.

• Milk: steady lactation, good udder structure, manageable temperament for milking.
• Meat: fast growth, muscling, efficient feed conversion.
• Fiber: consistent fleece quality, calm handling for shearing/combing.
• Brush control: hardy, good foragers, strong feet/legs, parasite resilience.
• Pets/4-H: gentle, easy to handle, predictable size, good manners.
• Breeding stock: documented health status, proven lines, correct structure.

Step 2: Convert Your Goal Into Selection Criteria

Breed Categories: What They’re Generally Best At

Within any breed there is variation, and crossbreds can be excellent. Use categories to narrow your search, then select individuals based on health and structure.

Dairy Types

Common examples include Alpine, Saanen, Nubian, LaMancha, Toggenburg, Nigerian Dwarf (mini dairy). Dairy goats are typically angular with more “dairy character” (leaner build, larger barrel for feed intake) and are selected for milk production.

• Best for: household milk, cheesemaking, show/4-H dairy projects.
• Watch-outs: higher nutritional demand in lactation; some lines can be more vocal or energetic.
• Selection tip: if buying a doe in milk, prioritize udder structure and teat usability over sheer volume claims.

Meat Types

Common examples include Boer, Kiko, Savanna, Spanish-type goats. Meat goats are selected for muscling, growth, and often hardiness.

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• Best for: market kids, freezer meat, brush control with growth potential.
• Watch-outs: very heavy animals can stress fencing and handling; intact bucks require confident management.
• Selection tip: look for width and depth with correct legs—muscle is useful only if the goat stays sound.

Dual-Purpose and Crossbreds

Dual-purpose goats (or well-planned crosses) can provide moderate milk and respectable growth. They’re often a practical fit for small farms that want versatility.

• Best for: homesteads wanting milk plus kids for meat, or brush control plus occasional milk.
• Watch-outs: may not excel at the extremes (highest milk or fastest growth).
• Selection tip: be clear about your “minimum acceptable” milk or growth, then buy animals that meet it.

Fiber Breeds

Common examples include Angora (mohair) and Cashmere-type goats. Fiber goats are selected for fleece traits more than milk or meat.

• Best for: spinning, fiber sales, niche farm products.
• Watch-outs: coats can mask thin condition; fiber management adds routine handling.
• Selection tip: part the fleece to check skin health and parasite signs; don’t judge condition by “fluff.”

Miniature Breeds

Miniature goats (such as Nigerian Dwarf for dairy, Pygmy for pet/meat-leaning companionship) can be easier to handle and feed, and are popular for small properties.

• Best for: pets, 4-H, small-scale milk, families wanting manageable size.
• Watch-outs: small goats still need strong fencing and can be prone to overfeeding; tiny teats can be challenging for hand-milking in some lines.
• Selection tip: match size to your handling ability and your facilities (gate gaps, feeder height, trailer setup).

How Size, Temperament, Hardiness, and Feed Needs Change Daily Care

Size

• Handling: Larger goats require more physical control for hoof work, loading, and medical care. If you’re new, a moderate-sized breed or wethers can be easier.
• Facilities: Bigger goats test gates, latches, and feeders. Smaller goats can slip through gaps—choose fencing and hardware accordingly.
• Feed: Larger bodies generally mean higher total intake. Budget feed and hay storage based on mature size, not the cute kid you’re buying.

Temperament

• Milking and routine care: Calm goats save time every day. Nervous or pushy goats make simple tasks (leading, trimming, health checks) harder.
• Herd dynamics: Aggressive animals can injure others and monopolize feed. Temperament is partly genetic and partly handling—buy from herds that routinely handle their goats.
• Practical test: ask to catch the goat in the pen. If the seller can’t catch it, you may struggle too.

Hardiness (Climate, Parasites, Feet/Legs)

• Climate fit: Coat type and body size affect heat/cold tolerance. Choose animals already thriving in a similar climate when possible.
• Parasite resilience: In many regions, internal parasites are a major limiting factor. Ask about the herd’s parasite management and whether animals are selected for resilience.
• Feet/legs: Goats that travel and browse need strong pasterns, correct hoof shape, and smooth movement. Poor structure becomes a daily-care problem.

Feed Needs (Especially for Milk and Growth)

Different goals change how “forgiving” the goat is if nutrition is imperfect.

• High-output dairy does: need consistent, higher-quality nutrition during lactation; they show deficits quickly (weight loss, low production, poor coat).
• Fast-growing meat kids: need steady growth nutrition; setbacks can delay finishing and increase costs.
• Brush-control animals: can be efficient foragers, but still require balanced nutrition and monitoring—“living off the land” is not a plan.

Practical Buying Checklist (Use This at the Farm Gate)

Bring a notebook and use a simple scoring approach. If multiple items are questionable, walk away—there will be other goats.

1) Choose Age and Sex for Your Goal

• Does (female): best for milk and breeding programs; can also be pets. If you want milk soon, buy a doe already in milk or bred from a reputable herd.
• Wethers (castrated males): often the easiest starters for pets and brush control; generally calmer, no breeding management, and fewer behavior issues than bucks.
• Bucks (intact males): only buy if you have a clear breeding plan and facilities to manage odor, strength, and separation needs.
• Kids vs adults: kids are cheaper and bond easily but are harder to evaluate for mature traits; adults cost more but you can see what you’re getting (size, temperament, production).

2) Evaluate Body Condition (Hands-On)

Use your hands, not your eyes. Feel over ribs, spine, and hips.

• Too thin: sharp spine/ribs, little muscle—could indicate parasites, poor teeth, chronic disease, or inadequate feeding.
• Too fat: heavy fat over ribs and brisket—can signal overfeeding and may create health/reproductive issues.
• Target: a firm, well-muscled goat with ribs not prominent but easily felt.

3) Eyes, Nose, and Coat

• Eyes: bright, clear, no heavy discharge; eyelids not pale (pale can suggest anemia/parasites).
• Nose: clean or minimal clear moisture; avoid thick discharge, coughing, or labored breathing.
• Coat/skin: smooth and appropriate for breed; check for dandruff, bald patches, scabs, or excessive scratching.

4) Watch the Goat Move (Gait and Structure)

• Walk away and toward you: look for smooth, even steps.
• Red flags: limping, stiff stride, cow-hocked or severely bowed legs, swollen joints, reluctance to bear weight.
• Feet: overgrown hooves can be a management issue; severely misshapen feet can be a long-term problem.

5) Udder and Teats (When Relevant)

If you’re buying for milk, udder quality matters as much as breed.

• Udder attachment: should be well-supported (not pendulous and swinging).
• Teats: two functional teats, sized and placed for milking; avoid very tiny teats if you plan to hand-milk.
• Texture: udder should feel soft and pliable when milked out; hard lumps can indicate mastitis or chronic issues.
• Ask to see milking: if possible, watch how the doe behaves and how the milk looks.

6) Testicles (Bucks and Wethers)

• Bucks: two evenly sized testicles, not hard or lumpy; scrotum free of sores. Uneven or missing testicle can affect fertility.
• Wethers: confirm castration status and method; ask age at castration and check for complications.

7) Signs of Parasites or Poor Health

• Manure: pellets are typical; persistent diarrhea or staining under tail is a red flag.
• Jaw/neck swelling: swelling under the jaw (“bottle jaw”) can indicate severe parasite burden.
• Coat and energy: rough coat, lethargy, poor appetite, or isolation from herd are warning signs.

8) Questions to Ask the Seller (Write the Answers Down)

• Reason for selling: listen for vague answers or shifting stories.
• Vaccines: which vaccines were given and when (ask for records).
• Deworming history: what products were used, how often, and what method guides treatment (avoid herds that deworm on a rigid schedule without monitoring).
• Testing: ask about CAE, CL, and Johne’s testing status, dates, and whether results are available.
• Kidding history (does): number of kiddings, any complications, mothering ability, and whether she raises kids well.
• Milk info (dairy does): lactation stage, typical daily yield, and whether she’s been hand- or machine-milked.
• Breeding dates (bred does): exposure date(s), buck used, and expected due window.
• Herd management: what the goats are currently eating, mineral program, and whether they’ve had recent illness outbreaks.

Decision Shortcuts: Matching Common Beginner Scenarios

If Your Goal Is Milk for the Household

• Best starting animals: two does (or one doe + one wether companion if you only want one milker).
• Breed category: dairy type or dairy cross.
• Buy based on: udder/teats, calm temperament, and health records more than “top milk claims.”

If Your Goal Is Brush Control and Companionship

• Best starting animals: two wethers.
• Breed category: hardy meat/dual-purpose types or mixes.
• Buy based on: sound feet/legs, good body condition, and parasite resilience indicators.

If Your Goal Is Meat for the Freezer

• Best starting animals: weaned kids or a small group of similar-aged wethers/bucks (depending on your plan and facilities).
• Breed category: meat type or meat cross.
• Buy based on: growthy frame, width, and health; avoid stunted or pot-bellied kids.

If Your Goal Is Fiber

• Best starting animals: two fiber goats (or one fiber goat plus a companion if you’re learning).
• Breed category: Angora/Cashmere-type.
• Buy based on: fleece quality plus skin health and body condition under the coat.

Sample Starter Herd Plans (Simple and Realistic)

Plan A: “Two Does” Starter (Milk or Future Breeding)

• Animals: 2 healthy does of similar size and management needs.
• Why it works: goats need companions; two does allow future breeding options and shared routines.
• Best for: milk goals, 4-H dairy projects, building a small breeding program slowly.

Plan B: “Two Wethers” Starter (Easiest Beginner Option)

• Animals: 2 wethers, ideally already socialized and halter-friendly.
• Why it works: no breeding management, generally steady temperament, great for learning handling and daily observation.
• Best for: brush control, pets, learning goat care before adding milkers or breeding animals.

Plan C: “One Milker + One Companion” (If You Only Want One Doe)

• Animals: 1 doe (milker) + 1 wether (companion).
• Why it works: meets the social needs of goats without committing to multiple milkers.
• Best for: small households with limited milk needs.

Quarantine Plan Preview (Expanded Later)

Before new goats meet your herd, plan a short isolation period to reduce disease and parasite introduction. Keep it simple and consistent.

Basic Quarantine Steps

• Duration: plan for about 2–4 weeks of separation.
• Separation: house new goats where they cannot touch noses with resident goats; use separate feeding and watering tools.
• Observation routine: check appetite, energy, manure, coughing/sneezing, and any lumps or skin issues daily.
• Health baseline: record body condition and temperature if illness is suspected; schedule any recommended testing with your veterinarian if you’re building a tested herd.
• Parasite check: monitor for anemia signs and diarrhea; avoid automatic deworming without a reason—use evidence-based decisions.
• Gradual introduction: after quarantine, introduce through a fence line first, then supervised mixing to reduce fighting.