This chapter focuses on a small set of tools you will use constantly. The goal is not just to “know where they are,” but to build repeatable habits: which tool options matter, what defaults are safe, and when you should change them.
Move Tool (Layers vs. Selections)
The Move tool is for repositioning content. In GIMP, it can move different targets depending on the mode: a layer, a selection, a path, or a guide. Beginners often think they are moving a layer but are actually moving a selection outline (or nothing at all), so always confirm the target mode.
What to use it for
- Repositioning a layer (logo, subject cutout, text layer).
- Nudging elements precisely (with arrow keys).
- Aligning items before cropping or transforming.
Key tool options and habits
- Move the active layer vs Pick a layer or guide: use active layer when you know which layer you want; use pick when you want to click an object and move whichever layer you clicked.
- Move selection: only use this when you intentionally want to shift the selection boundary (common in compositing, not in basic layout).
- Nudge with arrow keys: after selecting Move, click once on the canvas to focus it, then use arrow keys for small adjustments.
Mini routine: “safe move” checklist
- Look at the Layers panel: is the correct layer active?
- In Move options, choose Move the active layer for predictable behavior.
- If nothing moves, check whether you accidentally have a floating selection or are in “move selection” mode.
Crop Tool (Composition + Output Control)
Crop removes pixels outside the crop rectangle. It is both a composition tool (framing) and an output tool (matching a required size/aspect). Cropping is destructive to the image boundary, so do it deliberately.
Key tool options and when to change defaults
- Fixed (Aspect ratio / Size): turn this on when you must match a format (e.g., 1:1, 16:9, 1920×1080). Leave it off for freeform composition.
- Current layer only: crop affects the whole image by default. Enable this only when you intentionally want to crop a single layer’s boundary (useful for trimming a pasted element).
- Allow growing: usually keep off. Turn on only if you want to expand the canvas by cropping outward (rare in beginner workflows).
- Center / composition guides: enable guides if you want help aligning horizons or placing subjects (rule of thirds, center lines).
Step-by-step: crop to a fixed aspect ratio
- Select the Crop tool.
- In Tool Options, enable Fixed and choose Aspect ratio.
- Enter a ratio (example:
1:1for square,16:9for widescreen). - Drag to create the crop rectangle; reposition it by dragging inside the rectangle.
- Adjust edges using handles; press
Enterto apply.
Transform Tools: Rotate, Scale, Flip, Perspective, Unified Transform
Transforms change the geometry of pixels. The most important beginner concept: transforms can reduce quality if repeated or if you enlarge too much. Your best habit is to transform as few times as possible and use good interpolation settings when scaling.
Interpolation (quality setting you should actually care about)
Interpolation controls how pixels are resampled during scaling/rotation/perspective changes.
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- None: sharp pixel edges; use for pixel art or icons that must stay crisp.
- Linear: fast, acceptable for small changes.
- Cubic (often a good default): smoother results for photos.
- NoHalo / LoHalo: can preserve detail better and reduce halos; useful for photos when scaling down/up, but may be slower.
Rule of thumb: for photos, use Cubic or NoHalo/LoHalo. For pixel art, use None.
Rotate Tool (straighten and creative rotation)
Rotate changes the angle of a layer/selection. It’s commonly used to straighten slightly tilted photos or to angle a graphic element.
Key options
- Transform: usually Layer for beginners.
- Direction: normal vs corrective (corrective can feel more intuitive for straightening).
- Clipping: controls what happens to corners after rotation (crop to result, adjust, etc.). If you rotate a photo, you’ll often need to crop afterward.
Micro-drill: rotate a slightly tilted image (straighten)
- Open a photo with a visible horizon or vertical lines (buildings, poles).
- Select the Rotate tool.
- Click the image to open the rotate dialog/handles.
- Rotate slightly until the horizon/verticals look straight. Use small increments (often between
0.2°and2°). - Apply the rotation.
- Use the Crop tool to remove the empty triangles at the corners created by rotation.
Scale Tool (resize a layer without ugly artifacts)
Scale changes the size of a layer or selection. The two biggest beginner mistakes are (1) scaling up too much (which invents detail and looks soft), and (2) scaling the same layer multiple times (quality loss accumulates).
Key options
- Keep aspect (chain icon): keep it locked almost always to avoid stretching faces/logos.
- Interpolation: choose Cubic or NoHalo/LoHalo for photos.
- Transform: usually Layer.
Micro-drill: scale a layer with minimal quality loss
- Duplicate the layer first (so you can compare): in the Layers panel, right-click the layer and choose Duplicate Layer.
- Select the Scale tool and click the duplicated layer on the canvas.
- In Tool Options, set Interpolation to Cubic (or NoHalo if available and you’re scaling down a photo).
- Ensure the chain/Keep aspect is locked.
- Scale down to about 60–80% and apply. Inspect edges and fine detail.
- Undo, then try scaling up to 130–150% and compare softness. Notice how enlarging reduces perceived sharpness.
- Best practice: decide the final size first, then scale once. If you must experiment, undo rather than repeatedly scaling the same layer.
Flip Tool (mirror horizontally/vertically)
Flip mirrors a layer or selection. It’s useful for correcting orientation, creating reflections, or checking composition (a horizontal flip can reveal balance issues).
- Horizontal flip: common for selfie corrections or compositional checks.
- Vertical flip: used for reflections or special effects.
Habit: flip a duplicate layer if you’re unsure, so you can compare quickly.
Perspective Tool (fix converging lines)
Perspective adjusts the four corners of a layer to simulate or correct depth. Use it to straighten a photographed poster, screen, or building facade where the top looks narrower than the bottom.
Key options
- Transform: usually Layer.
- Interpolation: use Cubic or NoHalo/LoHalo for photos.
- Clipping: you may need to crop after applying.
Step-by-step: quick perspective correction
- Select the Perspective tool.
- Click the layer to show corner handles.
- Drag corners so the object’s edges become parallel (use door frames, poster edges, or screen borders as references).
- Apply, then crop away empty areas if needed.
Unified Transform (one tool for scale + rotate + perspective)
Unified Transform combines multiple transforms into one interaction: you can scale, rotate, shear, and adjust perspective using different handles. This is useful because you can reach a final shape in one pass instead of applying multiple transforms (which helps preserve quality).
When to prefer it
- You need to rotate and scale an element into place at the same time.
- You’re matching a pasted graphic onto a surface (slight perspective + scale).
- You want fewer separate transform operations.
Practical habit
- Do your positioning with Move first, then use Unified Transform to fit the element precisely, then apply once.
Brush Basics: Paintbrush and Eraser (non-destructive habits)
Painting tools are for adding or removing pixels. The beginner-friendly, flexible approach is to paint on a new blank layer whenever possible, so you can adjust or delete your strokes without damaging the original image.
Paintbrush Tool: the core controls
- Opacity: how transparent each stroke is. Lower opacity builds up gradually and is ideal for subtle retouching.
- Hardness (often controlled by brush choice): hard edges for crisp masks/graphics; soft edges for blending and gentle corrections.
- Size: match brush size to the detail you’re editing. Use a larger, softer brush for smooth transitions; smaller for precise spots.
- Dynamics: controls how pressure/speed affects size/opacity/hardness (even with a mouse, some dynamics can respond to speed; with a tablet, pressure is powerful).
Eraser Tool: erase with control
Eraser removes pixels on the active layer. On a layer with transparency, it erases to transparent. On a background layer without alpha, it erases to the background color. For flexible editing, consider adding an alpha channel to layers you plan to erase.
- Opacity: lower opacity for gradual erasing (useful for soft fades).
- Hardness: soft eraser for feathered edges; hard eraser for sharp cutouts.
- Size: keep it just slightly larger than the area you want to remove for smooth control.
When to change defaults (quick guide)
| Goal | Tool | Change these options | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| Straighten a photo | Rotate | Small angle adjustments; clipping awareness | Rotation creates empty corners; you’ll likely crop after |
| Resize a photo layer cleanly | Scale | Interpolation: Cubic/NoHalo; keep aspect locked | Better detail preservation; avoids stretching |
| Fix a skewed poster/screen | Perspective / Unified Transform | Interpolation: Cubic/NoHalo | Reduces artifacts during resampling |
| Subtle retouching | Paintbrush | Opacity 10–30%; soft brush; dynamics | Builds changes gradually and naturally |
| Clean edge removal | Eraser | Hardness up; opacity 100% | Sharp, decisive edges |
Micro-drill: paint on a blank layer with brush dynamics (controlled retouching)
This drill builds the habit of non-destructive painting and teaches you to control strokes using opacity, softness, and dynamics.
Setup
- Create a new transparent layer above your image: Layer → New Layer (Transparency).
- Name it
Retouch(optional but helpful). - Select the Paintbrush tool.
Step-by-step drill
- Choose a soft round brush (soft edge).
- Set Opacity to around
15%to start. - Set brush Size to roughly 2–3× the width of the area you want to blend (for example, under-eye shadow, small blemish area, or a background patch).
- Enable a simple Dynamics preset (if using a tablet, pick one that maps pressure to opacity or pressure to size; if using a mouse, try a dynamics setting that varies with speed if available).
- Sample a nearby color if needed (use the color picker tool briefly, then return to brush), then paint gently on the
Retouchlayer with multiple passes instead of one heavy stroke. - Toggle the
Retouchlayer visibility on/off to verify you improved the image without overpainting. - If the effect is too strong, reduce the
Retouchlayer’s layer opacity instead of repainting.
Optional control exercise: erase non-destructively
Instead of erasing on the original image, erase only on the Retouch layer:
- Select the Eraser tool.
- Use a soft brush, opacity around
20–40%. - Gently erase parts of your retouch strokes to refine edges and transitions.
Common beginner pitfalls (and quick fixes)
- “My Move tool won’t move the layer.” Fix: confirm the correct layer is active and Move is set to move the active layer (not selection).
- “Scaling made my image blurry.” Fix: avoid enlarging; scale once; use Cubic/NoHalo; consider starting from a higher-resolution source.
- “After rotating, I see empty corners.” Fix: crop after rotation (this is normal).
- “My brush looks stampy or too harsh.” Fix: choose a softer brush, lower opacity, and increase size slightly; build up gradually.
- “Eraser paints a solid color instead of transparency.” Fix: you’re likely on a layer without alpha; add an alpha channel or work on a transparent layer.