Crimping Technique: Secure Ends with Crimp Beads, Covers, and Wire Guardians

What a Crimped Finish Does (and Why It Works)

A crimped finish locks flexible beading wire (multi-strand cable) so your clasp loop stays secure under tension. The strength comes from two things: (1) the wire is doubled back, creating friction and a “noose-like” lock, and (2) the crimp bead/tube is compressed in a controlled shape that grips both wire passes without cutting them.

Anatomy of a Clean Crimped Loop

Visualize the wire path as a tidy loop at the clasp:

• Pass 1: Beading wire comes out of the last bead and goes through the crimp, then through the clasp ring (or through a wire guardian first), then back.
• Pass 2: The wire returns back through the crimp and then back through 2–6 beads (depending on bead hole size and design), creating a smooth, hidden tail.
• Loop size: The loop should be large enough for free movement at the clasp, but not so large that it looks sloppy or snags.

When done correctly, the crimp sits close to the clasp/guardian, the loop is neat, and the tail disappears into the beadwork without a sharp cut end exposed.

Choosing the Right Crimp for Your Wire

Crimp Beads vs. Crimp Tubes

• Crimp beads (round) are common and work well for many projects, but can be easier to over-flatten if squeezed incorrectly.
• Crimp tubes (short cylinders) generally crimp more reliably because they fold and round more predictably, especially on thicker beading wire.

Match Crimp Size to Wire Diameter

Your crimp must fit two passes of your beading wire. If it’s too small, the wire won’t seat properly and may fray or crack the crimp. If it’s too large, it may not compress tightly and can slip.

Fit test: Before stringing, slide the crimp onto a short scrap of wire doubled over. It should pass smoothly without scraping, but not feel roomy.

Continue in our app.

• Listen to the audio with the screen off.
• Earn a certificate upon completion.
• Over 5000 courses for you to explore!

Or continue reading below...

Download the app

Step-by-Step: Professional Two-Stage Crimping

This method uses the two notches on crimping pliers: the first notch creates a controlled fold, and the second notch rounds the crimp into a smooth finish.

1) Thread the Crimp and Form the Loop

• Slide a crimp bead/tube onto the beading wire.
• Pass the wire through the clasp ring (or through a wire guardian first—see upgrades below).
• Bring the wire back through the crimp, forming a loop.
• Feed the tail back through the next beads (typically 2–6). If your beads have small holes, you may only manage 1–3.

Tail length guideline: Leave enough tail to pass through several beads and still hold onto it while adjusting (often 1–2 inches / 2.5–5 cm). You will trim later.

2) Set Loop Size and Crimp Position

• Pull the tail gently until the loop is the size you want.
• Position the crimp close to the clasp/guardian, but do not pinch the clasp inside the crimp.
• Aim for a tiny bit of “wiggle room” so the clasp can move freely; the loop should not be under tension.

Tip: If you have trouble holding the loop while tightening, temporarily insert a toothpick, awl, or scrap wire into the loop to maintain consistent size while you snug the tail.

3) First Crimp: Use the Correct Notch (the Folding Notch)

Open your crimping pliers and identify the notch that creates the fold (often the larger/inner notch, depending on the tool). Place the crimp into this notch so the tool’s “tooth” (the raised part) presses into the center of the crimp.

• Hold the crimp so the wire passes sit on either side of the tooth (one wire on each side).
• Squeeze firmly until the crimp folds into a “C” or “U” shape around the wires.

What you should see: The crimp is no longer round; it has a defined fold, and the two wire passes are separated rather than stacked.

4) Second Crimp: Round and Smooth in the Finishing Notch

Move the folded crimp to the second notch (the rounding/finishing notch). This notch reshapes the folded crimp into a compact, rounded form.

• Orient the folded crimp so the open side of the “C” faces the rounding notch’s curve.
• Squeeze until the crimp becomes smooth and rounded, with no sharp corners.

Stop point: Compress until secure and rounded—do not keep squeezing repeatedly. Over-crimping can weaken the wire or crack the crimp.

5) Trim or Hide the Tail Cleanly

• If the tail is already threaded through beads, pull it snug and trim close to the beadwork (without cutting the main wire).
• If you cannot hide the tail through beads (design limitation), consider adding a bead tip area or using a different finishing strategy; avoid leaving a long exposed tail that can snag.

Optional Upgrades for Durability and a Polished Look

Upgrade A: Wire Guardians (Abrasion Resistance)

Wire guardians are small, U-shaped metal channels that the wire passes through before it goes through the clasp. They protect beading wire from rubbing against a clasp ring over time.

How to use:

• Slide crimp onto wire.
• Pass wire through one channel of the guardian, then through the clasp ring, then back through the other channel of the guardian.
• Bring the tail back through the crimp and proceed with the two-stage crimp.

Placement note: The crimp should sit close to the guardian so the guardian, not the wire, contacts the clasp.

Upgrade B: Crimp Covers (Cosmetic Finish)

Crimp covers are thin metal shells that close over a finished crimp to make it look like a round bead.

How to use:

• Complete the crimp first (both stages), then trim/hide the tail.
• Place the crimp cover over the crimp.
• Gently close it with chain-nose pliers (or the very tip of flat-nose pliers), pressing just enough to snap/close without denting.

Tip: If you crush the cover, it can look lopsided. Use light pressure and adjust from multiple angles.

Upgrade C: Add a Short “Bead Tip Area” Near the Clasp

If your design allows, adding a small cluster of beads near the clasp can help hide the tail and create a more intentional transition. This is especially useful when your main beads have small holes or when you want extra coverage near the end.

• Plan for 2–6 smaller-hole-friendly beads near the end that the tail can pass through easily.
• After crimping, thread the tail through these beads so the cut end lands deeper inside the beadwork.

Design benefit: This reduces the chance of a sharp tail end sitting right next to the clasp where it can poke skin or catch hair.

Quality Checks (Do These Every Time)

Security Check: No Sliding

• Hold the clasp in one hand and the beadwork in the other.
• Pull firmly (steady tension, not a jerk).
• The crimp should not move, and the loop size should not change.

Comfort Check: No Sharp Edges

• Run a fingertip over the crimp and the trimmed area.
• Nothing should feel scratchy or sharp.
• If using a crimp cover, ensure it is fully closed and not leaving a seam edge sticking out.

Visual Check: Clean Loop and Alignment

• Loop is round/oval and centered.
• Crimp sits straight (not tilted) and close to the clasp/guardian.
• No visible frayed wire strands near the crimp.

Common Failures and How to Fix Them

Problem: Crimp Cracks or Splits

Likely causes: Crimp is too small for two wire passes; using the wrong notch first; squeezing too hard; low-quality/too-brittle crimp.

Fix:

• Cut off the damaged crimp and start over (do not trust a cracked crimp).
• Choose a larger crimp or switch to a crimp tube.
• Make sure the first crimp is done in the folding notch, then finish in the rounding notch.
• Use firm, single compressions rather than repeated crushing.

Problem: Wire Frays at the Crimp

Likely causes: Crimp too small; sharp edges inside the crimp; over-crimping; wire was kinked before crimping.

Fix:

• Cut back to clean, unfrayed wire and re-crimp with a correctly sized crimp.
• Use a wire guardian to reduce abrasion at the clasp end.
• Avoid pulling the wire tail at a harsh angle while tightening; keep the tail aligned with the strand.

Problem: Over-Crimping (Flattened, Sharp, or Weak Hold)

Symptoms: Crimp looks pancaked, has sharp corners, or the wire seems pinched/damaged.

Fix:

• Redo the crimp. Once the wire is damaged, it’s not worth risking a failure.
• Use the two-stage method: fold first, then round—do not try to “finish” in the folding notch.
• Apply just enough pressure to form the shape; stop when rounded and secure.

Problem: Leaving Too Much Tail (or a Tail That Pokes Out)

Likely causes: Not enough beads available to hide the tail; trimming too far from the bead; tail not routed back through enough beads.

Fix:

• Before crimping, confirm you can feed the tail through several beads; if not, plan a short bead tip area near the clasp.
• After crimping, pull the tail snug and trim closer, then gently nudge the cut end into a bead hole if possible.
• If the tail keeps backing out, re-crimp and route the tail through more beads (or choose beads with slightly larger holes in the end section).

Problem: Crimp Slips (Loop Gets Bigger)

Likely causes: Crimp too large; wrong notch used; wires stacked instead of separated during first fold; insufficient compression.

Fix:

• Redo with a better-fitting crimp size.
• During the first fold, ensure one wire pass sits on each side of the plier tooth.
• Use a crimp tube for more consistent results on thicker wire.

Problem: Loop Is Too Tight (Clasp Doesn’t Move Freely)

Likely causes: Pulled the tail too snug before crimping; crimp positioned too close with no slack.

Fix:

• Redo the crimp and set loop size with a spacer (toothpick/awl) before tightening.
• If using a wire guardian, let the guardian sit naturally; don’t force it tight against the clasp ring.