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Welding for Absolute Beginners: Processes You’ll See (MIG, TIG, Stick, Flux-Core)

Capítulo 2

Estimated reading time: 10 minutes

Four Processes You’ll See Most Often

As a beginner, you’ll usually run into four arc-welding processes: MIG (GMAW), flux-core (FCAW), stick (SMAW), and TIG (GTAW). They all create an electric arc that melts metal to form a weld, but they differ in how they add filler metal, how they protect the molten puddle from the air, and how demanding they are to run.

At a high level: MIG is the common “trigger-and-go” shop process for steel; flux-core is similar but often better outdoors; stick is rugged and forgiving on dirty steel; TIG is slow but precise and clean for thin material and nice-looking welds.

What “Shielding” Means (Gas vs Flux)

When metal is molten, oxygen and nitrogen from the air can cause porosity, brittleness, and ugly welds. Welding processes prevent that by creating a protective “shield” around the arc and puddle.

Gas shielding

MIG (GMAW) and TIG (GTAW) commonly use a cylinder of shielding gas (often argon mixes) that flows from the torch/gun and blankets the weld area. This works very well indoors, but the gas can be blown away by wind.

Flux shielding

Flux-core (FCAW) and stick (SMAW) rely on flux (a compound in the wire core or on the electrode coating). As it burns, it creates shielding gases and forms slag that covers the cooling weld. This is why these processes can be more tolerant outdoors and on less-than-perfect steel.

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Why wind matters

Wind can push away a gas shield before it protects the puddle. The result is often a weld that looks “bubbly” or peppered with pinholes (porosity). Flux-based processes generate shielding right at the arc and also create slag coverage, so they tend to handle breezes better. (Strong wind can still cause trouble, but it’s usually less sensitive than pure gas shielding.)

Quick Comparison Table (Beginner-Focused)

Criteria	MIG (GMAW)	Flux-Core (FCAW)	Stick (SMAW)	TIG (GTAW)
Equipment complexity	Moderate: machine + gun + wire + gas (often)	Moderate: machine + gun + flux-core wire (gasless for self-shielded)	Low: machine + electrode holder + rods	High: machine + torch + gas + filler rods + foot pedal/controls (often)
Learning curve	Beginner-friendly for basic steel welding	Similar to MIG, but slag management and more smoke/spatter	Steeper at first (arc starts, rod sticking, maintaining arc length)	Steepest (two-hand coordination + heat control)
Material thickness range	Great for thin to medium (common shop range)	Good for medium to thicker; can be hot/penetrating	Good for medium to thick; thin metal is harder	Excellent for thin; also works on thicker but slower
Indoor/outdoor suitability	Best indoors or sheltered from wind	Good outdoors (self-shielded) and indoors	Very good outdoors and on job sites	Best indoors; dislikes wind
Cleanliness requirements	Prefers clean metal (paint/rust/oil cause problems)	More tolerant than MIG, still benefits from cleaning	Most tolerant of rust/paint (within reason)	Requires the cleanest prep for good results
Typical beginner projects	Small shop fabrication, brackets, carts, mild-steel repairs	Outdoor repairs, thicker steel projects, farm/yard items	Gate hinges, heavy brackets, equipment repair, thicker steel	Thin sheet, small precise parts, clean welds on steel/stainless (and aluminum with AC-capable machine)
Bead appearance & spatter	Smooth beads, moderate spatter if settings are off	More spatter and slag; bead can look rougher until dialed in	Slag-covered bead; can look good but more texture; spatter varies	Cleanest look, minimal spatter; “stacked dimes” appearance is possible with practice

MIG (GMAW): The Common “Shop Welder” Choice

What it is: A wire-fed process. You pull the trigger and a solid wire electrode feeds continuously through the gun while shielding gas protects the puddle.

Why beginners like it: You can focus on travel speed, gun angle, and keeping a steady distance because the filler metal feeds automatically.

When a beginner might choose MIG

You’re working indoors or can block wind.
You want to weld mild steel for typical home/shop projects.
You want faster progress with less frustration than stick or TIG.

Practical setup flow (high level)

Choose wire size and gas appropriate for mild steel (common setups use solid wire with a shielding gas mix).
Prep the joint so the arc sees clean metal at the weld path.
Set voltage and wire feed speed using the machine’s chart as a starting point.
Run a short test bead on scrap of the same thickness, then adjust: too much spatter and harsh sound often means settings are off; stubbing into the puddle often means wire speed too high for the voltage.

What to expect in the bead

MIG can produce a fairly smooth bead quickly. If settings or technique are off, you’ll see more spatter, a tall “ropey” bead (too cold/slow), or undercut at the edges (too hot/fast or poor angle). Wind can cause porosity that may not be obvious until you grind or inspect closely.

Flux-Core (FCAW): MIG-Like, Often Better Outdoors

What it is: A wire-fed process like MIG, but the wire is tubular and filled with flux. Many beginner machines run self-shielded flux-core (no gas bottle). Some FCAW uses gas too, but the “no-gas” version is what most beginners encounter.

Why beginners choose it: It’s convenient (no cylinder), works better in breezy conditions, and can weld thicker steel effectively.

When a beginner might choose flux-core

You need to weld outside or in a drafty garage.
You’re doing repairs where metal isn’t perfectly clean.
You want strong welds on medium to thicker steel with a compact machine.

Practical step-by-step: running your first flux-core bead

Confirm polarity for the wire you’re using (many self-shielded wires require a different polarity than MIG with gas). Check the wire label and the machine diagram.
Clean the weld path as much as practical (remove heavy rust, paint, and oil).
Set voltage and wire speed from the chart, then test on scrap.
Use the recommended technique for your wire (many self-shielded wires prefer a drag/pull technique). Keep a steady stickout.
Chip/brush slag between passes if you’re doing more than one pass. Leaving slag can trap defects.

What to expect in the bead

Flux-core usually makes more smoke and spatter than MIG and leaves slag you must remove to see the finished bead. The bead can look rougher at first, but it can be very strong. Because slag hides the bead until cleaned, beginners sometimes think they did poorly—then it looks much better after chipping and brushing.

Stick (SMAW): Rugged, Simple, Great for Repairs

What it is: You clamp a flux-coated rod in an electrode holder. The rod is both the electrode and the filler metal. As it burns, the flux provides shielding and forms slag.

Why beginners choose it: The equipment is simple and portable, it works well outdoors, and it tolerates less-than-perfect metal better than MIG/TIG.

When a beginner might choose stick

You’re repairing thicker steel (brackets, frames, gates).
You’re working outside or far from a clean shop setup.
The steel is rusty or painted and you can’t prep perfectly (still clean as much as you can).

Practical step-by-step: your first stick practice routine

Pick a common rod type suited to beginner practice and your machine (your local supplier or machine manual can guide you).
Set amperage to the rod’s recommended range.
Practice striking an arc on scrap: use a quick scratch or tap, then immediately lift to maintain a short arc.
Run straight beads without worrying about joints yet. Focus on consistent arc length and travel speed.
Remove slag after each bead to evaluate shape and tie-in at the edges.

What to expect in the bead

Stick welds are covered in slag until you chip and brush them. Beads can look textured, and spatter can vary by rod type and settings. Early frustration often comes from rods sticking to the work or an unstable arc—usually solved by adjusting amperage, arc length, and technique.

TIG (GTAW): Precision and Cleanliness (But Slower)

What it is: A non-consumable tungsten electrode creates the arc. You add filler separately (like feeding a small rod into the puddle) while shielding gas protects the weld. Many setups also use a foot pedal or fingertip control to adjust heat.

Why beginners choose it: You want maximum control and the cleanest-looking welds, especially on thin material. It’s also common for stainless work and, with the right machine, aluminum.

When a beginner might choose TIG

You’re welding thin metal where too much heat will blow through.
You care about appearance and clean welds with minimal spatter.
You can work indoors with good control of drafts and cleanliness.

Practical step-by-step: a beginner-friendly TIG drill

Prep extremely clean metal (TIG shows contamination immediately).
Set up gas flow and tungsten as recommended for your material.
Practice making a puddle on flat plate without adding filler: hold a steady torch angle and distance.
Add filler consistently: dip the rod into the leading edge of the puddle, then move forward.
Control heat (pedal/controls): add heat to start, then reduce as the part warms up.

What to expect in the bead

TIG produces the least spatter and can look very smooth. If the metal isn’t clean or the gas shield is disturbed, you’ll see discoloration, a dirty-looking puddle, or porosity. TIG is slower than the other processes, so it’s less convenient for big, thick projects.

Simple Decision Scenarios (Choose a Process)

Scenario 1: Driveway trailer gate hinge repair (outside, windy)

Best fit: Stick or self-shielded flux-core.
Why: Wind won’t easily ruin the shielding; both handle thicker steel and imperfect surfaces better.
What to expect: Slag removal afterward; more spatter than MIG/TIG.

Scenario 2: Small shop fabrication (cart, brackets, angle iron) indoors

Best fit: MIG.
Why: Fast, beginner-friendly, clean enough for repeated tack-and-weld workflows.
What to expect: Generally smooth beads; spatter mostly depends on settings and technique.

Scenario 3: Thin sheet metal patch (light gauge steel)

Best fit: TIG (or carefully tuned MIG with good technique).
Why: TIG offers precise heat control to avoid burn-through and warping.
What to expect: TIG is slow but clean; MIG can be faster but easier to overheat thin material.

Scenario 4: Rusty farm implement repair (thick, dirty steel)

Best fit: Stick.
Why: Most tolerant of less-than-perfect prep and good for thicker sections.
What to expect: Slag and a more rugged-looking bead; strength depends on good tie-in and removing slag between passes.

Bead Appearance and Spatter: What’s “Normal” for Each

Beginners often judge weld quality by looks alone. Appearance does matter, but each process has its own “normal” look.

MIG: Often smooth with small ripples. Some spatter is common, especially if settings are not matched to thickness or if the work isn’t clean.
Flux-core: Typically more spatter and a slag layer. The bead may look rough until cleaned; after slag removal it can look surprisingly good.
Stick: Slag-covered until cleaned. Bead texture varies with rod type; consistent width and good edge tie-in are better indicators than a perfectly shiny surface.
TIG: Cleanest and least spatter. Discoloration or a dirty puddle usually points to contamination, poor shielding, or drafts.

A Practical “Pick One” Checklist

Use this quick checklist when you’re deciding what to learn first or what to use on a project:

Working outdoors or in wind? Prefer stick or self-shielded flux-core.
Want the easiest path to functional welds on mild steel indoors? Prefer MIG.
Metal is rusty/painted and you can’t prep perfectly? Prefer stick (or flux-core).
Thin material and you care about clean, precise results? Prefer TIG.
Need speed on lots of joints? MIG or flux-core.

Now answer the exercise about the content:

You need to weld outside in a windy area, and you want a process whose shielding is less likely to be ruined by breezes. Which option best fits?

You are right! Congratulations, now go to the next page

You missed! Try again.

Wind can blow away gas shielding and cause porosity. Stick and self-shielded flux-core generate shielding from flux at the arc and form slag, so they usually handle outdoor breezes better.