Welding for Absolute Beginners: Making Your First Beads (Flat Position Practice)

Goal of This Practice Session: Beads-on-Plate in the Flat Position

Your first weld practice should be as controlled as possible. The flat position (workpiece lying flat on the table, weld on top) lets gravity help you: the molten puddle stays where you put it, and you can focus on hand control, puddle size, and consistency. In this chapter you will run beads-on-plate (no joint yet) on mild steel coupons to build the core skill: moving at a steady pace while holding a steady angle and distance.

What “A Good Practice Bead” Looks Like

• Consistent width from start to finish (no sudden fat/thin sections).
• Even ripple pattern (like stacked coins for MIG/flux-core; smooth, even ripples for stick).
• Minimal spatter (some is normal, but it shouldn’t look like a sandblaster hit it).
• Edges tied in (the bead blends into the plate edges without sitting like a rope on top).
• Sound matches the process (you’ll use sound as a tuning tool).

Practice Plan: Coupons, Layout, and a Simple Schedule

Materials

• Mild steel coupons: start around 1/8 in (3 mm) thick if available; anything in the 1/16–3/16 in range works for practice.
• Coupon size: about 2 in × 6 in (50 × 150 mm) is easy to handle and gives room for multiple beads.
• Marker/soapstone and a ruler.
• Wire brush/chipping hammer (especially for stick/flux-core slag).
• Clamps to keep the coupon from shifting.

Layout (Do This Before You Strike an Arc)

Mark guide lines so you can judge straightness and spacing.

1. Draw a long centerline down the coupon.
2. Draw parallel lines about 3/8–1/2 in (10–12 mm) apart across the width. These become “lanes” for beads.
3. Mark a start zone and stop zone (small tick marks) so you practice consistent starts/stops.

Session Structure (30–60 Minutes)

Gun/Torch Handling Fundamentals (Flat Position)

Two Angles You Must Control

Work angle is the angle side-to-side, relative to the plate. For beads-on-plate, you usually want the gun/electrode centered so the bead is symmetrical.

Travel angle is the angle in the direction you move. This affects penetration, bead shape, and puddle control.

Typical Starting Angles (Use These as Training Wheels)

• MIG (GMAW): work angle ~90° to the plate (straight in), travel angle ~10–15°.
• Flux-core (FCAW-S): similar to MIG for basic beads; travel angle ~10–15° (many setups prefer a drag/pull technique—follow your wire recommendation).
• Stick (SMAW): work angle ~90° for a straight bead on plate; travel angle ~10–15° in the direction of travel.

These are not “magic numbers.” They are stable starting points that make it easier to see what changes when you adjust technique.

Continue in our app.

• Listen to the audio with the screen off.
• Earn a certificate upon completion.
• Over 5000 courses for you to explore!

Or continue reading below...

Download the app

Push vs Pull (Keep It Simple at First)

• Push (gun points in the direction of travel): often gives a flatter bead and a clearer view of the puddle (common for MIG).
• Pull/drag (gun points back toward the finished weld): often gives a slightly higher bead and can feel more stable for flux-core and stick.

Pick one method for your first session and stick with it so you’re not changing multiple variables at once.

Distance Control: Stick-Out (MIG/Flux-Core) and Arc Length (Stick)

Distance is one of the biggest causes of “good for 1 inch, ugly for 1 inch.” Your goal is to keep it constant.

• MIG/Flux-core stick-out (contact tip to work distance): start around 3/8 in (10 mm) unless your wire spec suggests otherwise. Too long tends to increase spatter and make the arc feel weak; too short can make it harsh and unstable.
• Stick arc length: aim for a short arc, roughly about the diameter of the electrode core (a common beginner target). Too long gives loud, erratic arc and spatter; too short makes sticking more likely.

Pacing: Travel Speed Controls Puddle Size

Think of the puddle as a small “pool” you are towing along. If you move too slowly, the puddle grows and the bead gets wide/high (and can feel out of control). If you move too fast, the bead gets narrow/ropey and may not tie into the plate edges.

A practical pacing cue: watch the puddle’s leading edge. Keep it the same size as you move. If it grows, speed up slightly; if it shrinks and looks skinny, slow down slightly.

Step-by-Step: Running Your First Bead (Beads-on-Plate)

1) Position the Work and Your Body

1. Clamp the coupon flat and stable.
2. Set your stance so your forearms can rest or be supported. Shaky arms create shaky beads.
3. Plan your travel path: you should be able to move smoothly without reaching, twisting, or lifting your elbow mid-bead.

2) Do a Dry Run (No Arc)

Trace the bead path with the gun/electrode about 1/2 in above the plate. Practice maintaining the same angles and distance while moving at a steady pace. This “air weld” is one of the fastest ways to improve control.

3) Start the Arc and Establish the Puddle

1. Start at your marked start zone.
2. Strike/trigger and hold still briefly to form a small puddle (a moment, not a long pause).
3. Once you see a stable puddle, begin moving.

4) Travel Smoothly and Watch One Thing

Pick a single visual target: the puddle size and the way it wets into the plate edges. Beginners often stare at the bright arc; instead, watch the molten pool just behind it.

5) Stop Cleanly

1. As you approach the stop mark, keep your pace steady.
2. Stop the arc at the mark. If your machine has a crater-fill feature, use it; if not, you’ll address craters in the stop-start drill.

6) Clean and Inspect

• For stick/flux-core: remove slag so you can actually see the bead.
• Look for: consistent width, smooth tie-in, and whether the bead sits flat or piles up.

Dialing In Settings: A Simple, Repeatable Method

Don’t guess from scratch. Use a structured loop: chart → short bead → observe → adjust one variable → repeat.

Step 1: Start With the Manufacturer Chart

Use the chart inside the machine door or your wire/electrode recommendation as your baseline for material thickness and wire/electrode size. This gets you close enough that your first bead is informative instead of chaotic.

Step 2: Run a Short Test Bead (1–2 in / 25–50 mm)

Short beads reduce heat buildup and let you evaluate quickly. Make only one bead before changing anything.

Step 3: Observe Sound and Appearance

• MIG: often sounds like a steady “sizzle” when in a stable short-circuit range. If it’s popping violently, settings or stick-out may be off.
• Flux-core: typically a stronger, more forceful arc sound than MIG; still should be steady rather than erratic.
• Stick: a stable arc sounds consistent; frequent sticking or a wandering arc suggests arc length/amps/technique issues.

Appearance cues you can use immediately:

• Bead too tall/ropey: you may be traveling too fast, voltage too low (MIG/FCAW), or heat too low.
• Bead too wide/flat with excessive spatter: you may be too hot, traveling too slow, or stick-out/arc length too long.
• Undercut (groove along the bead edge): often too hot or too fast, or travel angle too steep.
• Cold lap/poor tie-in (bead sits on top): often too cold or too fast, or incorrect angle/distance.

Step 4: Adjust One Variable at a Time

Change only one thing, then run another short bead in a new lane.

• MIG/Flux-core: adjust voltage (or heat setting) first for arc stability and bead shape; then adjust wire feed speed for sound/arc behavior. If your machine uses tapped settings, move one step at a time.
• Stick: adjust amperage in small steps. If you can’t hold a short arc without sticking, you may be too cold (or your arc length is too short).

Keep a simple log on paper or with a phone note: material thickness, wire/electrode, settings, and what you saw. This turns “random practice” into progress.

Structured Drills (Flat Position)

Drill 1: Straight Beads on a Line

Purpose: build hand steadiness and consistent distance.

1. Pick a marked line.
2. Run a bead directly over it, focusing on constant stick-out/arc length.
3. Repeat in a new lane until you can keep the bead centered for the full length.

Self-check: If the bead wanders, slow your body movement down and support your hands more. If the bead width changes, your distance or speed is changing.

Drill 2: Overlapping Beads (Build a “Pad”)

Purpose: learn spacing and puddle control while managing heat.

1. Run your first straight bead.
2. Run a second bead alongside it, overlapping the first by about 1/3 to 1/2 of the bead width.
3. Continue until you fill the coupon with a uniform pad.

Self-check: The surface should look even, not like separate ropes. If you leave valleys between beads, overlap more or slow slightly. If it piles up, you may be too slow or too cold.

Drill 3: Stop-Start (Crater Restart Practice)

Purpose: learn controlled stops and restarts without leaving a weak spot.

1. Run a bead for about 1–2 in (25–50 mm), then stop.
2. Let it cool briefly (especially on thin coupons).
3. Restart slightly behind the crater (about 1/8–1/4 in / 3–6 mm), then move forward through the crater and continue.
4. Repeat multiple times along one lane.

Self-check: If you get a divot at each stop, you’re leaving a crater. If you get a big lump at each restart, you’re pausing too long or restarting too far back.

Common Beginner Problems and Fast Fixes (Technique First)

Clear Stopping Rules (When to Pause Immediately)

Stop welding and make the situation stable if any of the following happens:

• You feel unsafe (loss of control, unexpected movement, discomfort that affects control).
• The workpiece shifts or a clamp loosens.
• The gun/lead gets snagged and pulls your hand off line.
• You can’t see the puddle clearly (lens issue, glare, smoke positioning, or your body position is forcing a bad view).
• The arc becomes erratic in a way you don’t understand (sudden harsh popping, repeated sticking, or unstable feeding). Release the trigger/break arc, then inspect setup and settings.
• Anything sounds or feels electrically/mechanically wrong (unusual buzzing, grinding wire feed, overheating smell). Stop and troubleshoot before continuing.

Mini Checklist Before Each Bead

• Coupon clamped and stable
• Comfortable stance and planned travel path
• Chosen angles: work angle centered, travel angle ~10–15°
• Distance target: consistent stick-out or arc length
• Eyes on puddle size and tie-in (not the bright arc)
• One goal for this bead (straightness, consistent width, or clean stop-start)