Project: Headband or Hair Wrap

What You’re Making and Why It’s a Great Beginner Project

A headband or hair wrap is a fabric band that holds hair back and adds a finished look to an outfit. In this project you’ll sew a comfortable, washable accessory that can be made in different widths and styles: a simple elastic-back headband, a fully elastic “wrap” that stretches all the way around, or a tie-style wrap that knots at the top. The construction is forgiving, the pieces are small, and you’ll practice skills that show up in larger garments later: sewing long seams neatly, turning a tube, making a casing, inserting elastic, and shaping ends so they look intentional.

This chapter focuses on one core pattern with variations so you can choose what fits your hair type and comfort preference. You’ll also learn how to adjust the fit without guesswork and how to avoid common issues like twisting, bulky seams, or a headband that slides off.

Style Options (Choose One)

Option A: Elastic-Back Headband (Recommended)

This style is smooth across the front and sides, with elastic only at the back. It looks polished, doesn’t create a lot of bulk, and is comfortable for long wear. It’s also the easiest to fit because the elastic handles small size differences.

Option B: Fully Elastic Hair Wrap

This is a continuous loop with elastic inside the entire length. It’s quick and very secure, but it can create more gathers all around and may feel warmer.

Option C: Tie Head Wrap (No Elastic)

This style ties at the top or nape. It’s adjustable and works well with thicker fabrics, but it requires tying each time and can loosen during active wear.

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The step-by-step instructions below are written for Option A (elastic-back) with clear notes for Options B and C where they differ.

Materials and Notions (Project-Specific)

• Fabric: woven cotton, cotton lawn, rayon challis, lightweight denim/chambray, linen, or stable knit (if using knit, keep it stable and not overly stretchy). For beginners, a woven cotton is easiest.
• Elastic: 1/2 in (12 mm) or 3/8 in (10 mm) wide elastic. Soft braided or knit elastic is comfortable.
• Matching thread
• Optional: fusible interfacing (lightweight) for a crisp front panel, especially for very soft fabrics
• Optional: small safety pin or bodkin for threading elastic

Fabric amount is small: typically 1/4 yard is plenty for one headband, even with directional prints.

Fit and Sizing Without Overthinking

Headbands are all about comfort. Too tight causes headaches; too loose slides off. The elastic-back style solves this by combining a stable front with a stretchy back.

Quick Measuring Method

Use a flexible tape measure and measure around your head where you want the headband to sit (usually around the hairline and behind the ears). Write down this number as your head circumference.

Suggested Finished Measurements

• Adult average head circumference: about 21–23 in (53–58 cm)
• Teen/small adult: about 20–21 in (51–53 cm)
• Child (approx.): about 18–20 in (46–51 cm)

Instead of making the fabric band equal to your full head circumference, you’ll make a longer fabric piece and let elastic gather the back. A reliable starting point is: front/sides fabric length = about 2/3 of head circumference, elastic section = about 1/3 of head circumference (but shorter than that once stretched).

Simple Formula for Option A (Elastic-Back)

Use these starting measurements, then fine-tune after a test fit:

• Fabric band length (before sewing): 18 in (46 cm) for most adults
• Elastic length: 5–7 in (13–18 cm) depending on how snug you like it

If you know your head circumference, you can estimate elastic length as: elastic = (head circumference × 0.30) to (head circumference × 0.35). For a 22 in head, that’s about 6.5–7.7 in. If you prefer less pressure, choose the longer end.

Width Choices

• Classic headband: cut width 4 in (10 cm) to finish about 1.5–1.75 in wide after seams and turning
• Wide wrap look: cut width 6–7 in (15–18 cm) to finish about 2.5–3 in wide

Wider bands show off prints and can be more secure, but they can also feel warmer. If you’re unsure, start with the classic width.

Cutting Plan (Option A: Elastic-Back)

You’ll cut one main rectangle and shape the ends so they taper into the elastic section neatly.

Standard Adult Cut

• Main piece: 18 in long × 4 in wide (46 cm × 10 cm)

To taper the ends: on each short end, mark 1 in (2.5 cm) in from each long edge, then draw a line from that mark to the corner of the short end, creating a gentle angled taper. When sewn and turned, the ends will be narrower and less bulky where the elastic gathers.

Optional Interfacing

If your fabric is very soft or slippery, cut interfacing the same size as the main piece but slightly narrower (for example 18 in × 3 in). Fuse it centered along the length so the seam allowances remain flexible. This helps the front stay smooth and prevents the band from collapsing or twisting.

Step-by-Step: Sew the Headband Tube

1) Fold and Stitch the Long Seam

Fold the main piece lengthwise with right sides together, matching long edges. Pin or clip along the long edge. Stitch the long edge with a consistent seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Practical tip: If your fabric frays easily, handle it gently and avoid over-pinning. If you notice the fabric stretching as you sew (common with rayon), reduce presser foot pressure if your machine allows, or sew slowly and keep the fabric supported on the table.

2) Press the Seam to Reduce Bulk

Press the seam allowance open if you can, or press it to one side. This makes the tube lie flatter and helps the headband feel smoother against your head.

3) Turn the Tube Right Side Out

Turn the tube right side out. Use a blunt tool to gently push out the tapered ends so they’re smooth, not pointy or strained. Press the tube flat with the seam centered on the underside (the side that will face your hair) for the cleanest look.

If the tube twists while turning, don’t force it. Pull it back, smooth the fabric, and try again. Twisting is usually caused by grabbing only one layer of fabric while turning.

Step-by-Step: Create the Elastic Back

There are two common ways to attach elastic: (1) insert elastic into the ends and stitch it down (simple and strong), or (2) create a casing and thread elastic through (adjustable). For beginners, stitching elastic into the ends is straightforward and secure.

4) Prepare the Ends

At each tapered end, fold the raw edge to the inside by about 1/2 in (12 mm). Press. This creates a clean edge and a channel to catch the elastic.

Practical tip: If your fabric is thick, reduce the fold to 3/8 in (10 mm) to avoid a bulky ridge.

5) Cut Elastic and Test the Feel

Cut a piece of elastic using your chosen length (start with 6.5 in / 16.5 cm for an average adult). Before sewing, wrap the elastic around the back of your head where the headband will sit and stretch it slightly. It should feel snug but not tight. Remember the fabric front will add length, so the elastic doesn’t need to go all the way around.

6) Insert Elastic Into One End and Stitch Securely

Insert one end of the elastic into the folded end of the fabric tube by about 1/2 in (12 mm). Stitch across the fabric end to catch the elastic. Sew a second line of stitching for extra security. A simple straight stitch works, but a narrow zigzag can add flexibility.

Practical tip: Stitch slowly over elastic. If your stitches look uneven, slightly lengthen the stitch and keep the fabric flat as it feeds.

7) Attach the Other End With Controlled Stretch

Insert the other end of the elastic into the opposite fabric end by about 1/2 in (12 mm). Before stitching, make sure the headband isn’t twisted: the seam should face the same direction on both sides. Stitch across to secure the elastic.

When you let go, the elastic will gather the back portion. Spread the gathers evenly with your fingers.

8) Optional: Add a Topstitch to Keep It Flat

If you want a more professional look, topstitch along the long edges of the front section only (not over the gathered elastic). This helps the headband stay flat and reduces rolling. Keep the topstitching neat and parallel to the edge.

Option B Variation: Fully Elastic Hair Wrap

If you want elastic all the way around, you’ll create a casing and thread elastic through the entire tube.

Cutting

• Main piece: 20–22 in long × 4 in wide (51–56 cm × 10 cm) for adults (length depends on how gathered you want it)

Construction Changes

• Sew the long seam and turn right side out as before.
• At both short ends, fold raw edges inward and stitch closed to form a loop (or overlap ends and stitch, depending on your preferred finish).
• Leave a small opening in the seam to insert elastic, or create a small buttonhole-style opening before closing.
• Thread elastic through the casing using a safety pin/bodkin, overlap elastic ends by about 1 in (2.5 cm), and stitch securely (zigzag works well).
• Close the opening and distribute gathers evenly.

Fit note: Fully elastic styles can feel tighter because the elastic is working everywhere. Start with elastic length about 2–3 in (5–7.5 cm) shorter than your head circumference and adjust from there.

Option C Variation: Tie Head Wrap (No Elastic)

This version is great if you dislike elastic or want a retro wrap look. It’s also helpful if you’re making gifts and don’t know the exact head size, because ties are adjustable.

Cutting

• Main piece: 34–40 in long × 4–6 in wide (86–102 cm × 10–15 cm)

Shape the ends into long tapers (like a necktie) so they knot neatly. You can draw a gentle taper over the last 8–10 in (20–25 cm) of each end.

Construction

• Fold lengthwise right sides together, stitch along the long edge and around the tapered ends, leaving a turning opening along the straight section.
• Turn right side out, press, then close the opening with a neat edge stitch or topstitch.
• Wear by wrapping around your head and tying a knot or bow at the top or nape.

Practical tip: If the knot feels bulky, use a lighter fabric or reduce the finished width to about 1.5–2 in (4–5 cm).

Comfort and Wearability Upgrades

Prevent Slipping

• Choose fabric with a bit of “grip” (quilting cotton, linen, brushed cotton). Very smooth fabrics can slide on fine hair.
• Make the band slightly wider at the front; more surface area can help it stay in place.
• Add a small strip of non-slip material on the underside (for example, a thin line of silicone seam grip). Test first; keep it minimal for comfort.

Reduce Bulk at the Elastic Join

• Taper the ends as described.
• Use 3/8 in elastic instead of 1/2 in if your fabric is thick.
• Press the folded ends sharply before inserting elastic so the layers behave.

Make It Reversible

Use a two-fabric method: cut two rectangles (same size), sew them right sides together along long edges and ends, leave an opening, turn, press, then add elastic at the ends. This gives you a clean finish and lets you mix prints (for example, floral on one side, solid on the other). If you do this, keep the seam allowances consistent so the edges don’t roll to one side.

Common Mistakes and Quick Fixes

The Headband Twists When Worn

• Cause: the tube was pressed with the seam off-center, or the elastic was attached with a twist.
• Fix: check that the seam runs consistently along the underside. If the elastic is twisted inside, you may need to unpick one end, straighten, and re-stitch.

It Feels Too Tight

• Cause: elastic is too short or too firm.
• Fix: replace with a longer elastic piece (even 1 in / 2.5 cm longer can make a big difference). If the elastic itself is stiff, switch to softer knit elastic.

It Slides Off

• Cause: elastic too long, fabric too slippery, or band too narrow for your hair type.
• Fix: shorten elastic slightly, choose a grippier fabric, or increase finished width. You can also add a small hand-stitched tack at the center front to create a slight “curve” that hugs the head.

The Ends Look Messy or Bulky

• Cause: ends weren’t pressed well, taper too short, or too much elastic inserted.
• Fix: re-press, taper more gradually, and insert elastic only 1/2 in (12 mm) before stitching. Consider trimming seam allowances slightly inside the folded end (avoid cutting stitches).

Pattern Notes You Can Reuse (Make More Without Re-Measuring)

Once you find a fit you like, write it down as your personal pattern recipe. Record:

• Main piece length and width
• Elastic length and width
• Whether you used interfacing
• Any changes (wider front, shorter taper, different fabric)

Example recipe: “Adult headband: cut 18 in × 4.5 in, taper last 2 in, elastic 6.75 in of 3/8 in knit elastic, topstitch front edges.” Keeping a simple record means your next headband can be cut and sewn quickly, and you can confidently make matching sets as gifts.

Optional Decorative Variations (Same Base Construction)

Twist-Front Look (Faux Twist)

To mimic a twist without complex construction, make the band slightly wider (cut 5–6 in). Before attaching elastic, pinch the center front and add a few hand stitches on the underside to hold a small fold. This creates a twisted appearance while keeping the inside smooth.

Bow Detail

Sew a small separate bow strip (a short tube), turn and press it, then hand stitch it at the center front. Keep the bow small so it doesn’t pull the headband forward.

Ruffled Edge

Cut the band wider and run two rows of long stitches along one long edge, then gently gather before sewing the tube. This adds texture but can feel bulky; use lightweight fabric.