Nail Prep Mastery: Client Assessment and Nail Plate Analysis Before You Touch the Nail

Why Assessment Comes Before Prep

Nail prep is not a single routine you apply to every client. It is a set of choices based on what you observe and what the client reports. A strong assessment prevents two common problems: (1) over-prepping healthy nails (leading to thinning, sensitivity, and poor retention) and (2) under-prepping challenging nails (leading to lifting, peeling, or premature wear). Use a consistent flow so you can justify each prep step and product choice.

Assessment Flow Overview (3 Phases)

1. Intake questions: identify lifestyle, medical red flags, and retention history.
2. Visual and tactile inspection: determine nail type, surface condition, and signs that change prep intensity.
3. Decision points: choose prep intensity and adhesion system (primer/base strategy) based on findings and wear patterns.

Phase 1: Intake Questions (Before You Examine the Nails Closely)

Core questions (ask every client)

• Service goal: “Are we doing natural nail overlay, extensions, or a simple gel polish?”
• Wear history: “How long does product usually last on you? Where does it lift first?”
• Home habits: “Do you use cuticle oil/hand cream often? Any acetone use at home?”
• Water/chemical exposure: “Do you wash dishes, clean, swim, or sanitize hands frequently?”
• Occupation/hobbies: “Do you type, garden, do hair, lift weights, or play instruments?”
• Recent changes: “New medication, hormonal changes, illness, or major stress recently?”
• Allergy/sensitivity: “Any reactions to nail products, adhesives, or fragrances?”

Targeted questions when retention is poor

• Timeline: “Does lifting happen within 48 hours, within a week, or near the end of wear?”
• Hands-on behavior: “Do you pick at edges, use nails as tools, or peel product off?”
• Previous prep: “Were you ever told your nails are oily, thin, or ridged?”

Red-flag questions (may change or postpone service)

• Pain: “Any tenderness, burning, or pain in the nail or surrounding skin?”
• Infection indicators: “Any swelling, heat, pus, or spreading redness?”
• Recent trauma: “Did you hit or crush a finger recently?”
• Nail separation: “Have you noticed the nail lifting away from the nail bed?”

Phase 2: Visual + Tactile Inspection (Nail Plate Analysis)

Inspect in good lighting. Look at the nail from the top and side profile. Then lightly glide a clean, dry finger across the plate to feel texture and thickness changes. Your goal is to classify nail type and identify conditions that require prep adjustments.

Step-by-step inspection routine (repeat on each hand)

1. Overall symmetry: compare fingers; note if one nail is consistently problematic.
2. Plate thickness: look at free edge and side profile for thin/overfiled appearance.
3. Surface texture: identify ridges, peeling layers, or patchy shine.
4. Cuticle area: check for dryness, hangnails, inflammation, or product flooding history.
5. Sidewalls: check for lifting lines, cracks, or skin irritation.
6. Hyponychium and underside: look for separation (onycholysis signs) or debris trapped under lifted areas.
7. Color changes: note bruising, redness, or unusual discoloration that suggests trauma or inflammation.

Identifying Nail Type (What You’re Really Classifying)

“Nail type” in prep terms is about surface chemistry (oil vs dryness), structure (thin vs strong), and topography (smooth vs ridged). A client can have mixed types across fingers.

Oily nail plates

What you may see: surface looks shiny soon after cleansing; product tends to lift at the cuticle or sidewalls; client reports short wear time even with careful use.

What it means for prep: prioritize thorough cleansing/dehydration and controlled primer strategy; avoid leaving any residue (including lotions or cuticle oil) before application.

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Dry/dehydrated nail plates

What you may see: chalky look, peeling layers at free edge, rough texture; client may use lots of sanitizer/cleaners; nails may feel “thirsty” and can over-absorb product.

What it means for prep: use lighter refinement to avoid shredding layers; choose a base system that supports flexibility and reduces stress at the free edge.

Thin or overfiled nails

What you may see: plate looks translucent, bends easily, heat sensitivity, red/pink “hot spots,” or uneven thickness; client may report soreness during previous services.

What it means for prep: minimal abrasion; avoid aggressive etching; consider a more cushioning base/overlay approach rather than relying on heavy prep for adhesion.

Ridges (longitudinal or surface unevenness)

What you may see: raised lines from cuticle to free edge; product may appear to lift along ridge valleys if not properly leveled.

What it means for prep: do not chase ridges by over-filing; instead, refine lightly and use a base/structure layer that can self-level to reduce stress points.

Signs consistent with onycholysis (nail plate separation)

What you may see: white/opaque area starting at free edge or side; a visible “air pocket” line; debris under the plate; the plate may sound hollow when tapped lightly.

What it means for prep: do not seal product over separated areas; avoid aggressive filing; service may need to be postponed or modified to protect the nail bed and prevent trapping moisture.

Bruising (subungual hematoma) and trauma signs

What you may see: dark red/purple/brown spot under the plate; tenderness; history of impact.

What it means for prep: avoid pressure and heat; consider postponing enhancements if pain is present or if the nail is unstable; do not mask severe trauma with opaque product if monitoring is needed.

Inflammation around the nail (proximal fold/sidewalls)

What you may see: redness, swelling, warmth, tenderness, broken skin, or weeping areas.

What it means for prep: avoid product contact with compromised skin; consider postponing if inflammation suggests infection or if the client cannot tolerate gentle manipulation.

Phase 3: Evaluate Existing Product Wear Patterns (Diagnostic Method)

Wear patterns are clues. Instead of only removing and reapplying, map where lifting occurs and connect it to a likely cause: prep, application, product choice, or client behavior.

Wear-pattern mapping (structured method)

1. Photograph or mentally map each nail: cuticle zone, sidewalls, apex/center, free edge, underside.
2. Identify the first failure point: ask the client where it started and confirm visually (oldest lifting edge often shows dirt staining or a softened boundary).
3. Classify the failure type: edge lifting, pocket lifting, peeling at free edge, cracking, or full delamination.
4. Check consistency: is it one finger (behavior/trauma) or most nails (systemic prep/product issue)?
5. Link to root cause using the decision cues below.

Common lifting locations and what they usually indicate

Quick diagnostic cues (if you only have 60 seconds)

• Lifting + shiny plate = suspect oil/residue or insufficient dehydration.
• Lifting + redness/soreness history = suspect over-prep and compromised plate.
• Peeling at tips + visible layers = suspect dryness/lamellar splitting; reduce abrasion and adjust base flexibility.
• Localized lifting on thumbs/index = suspect mechanical stress and client habits; adjust length/structure.

Contraindications: When to Modify or Postpone Service

Postpone service (do not proceed with enhancement/gel application) if you observe:

• Signs of infection: swelling, heat, pus, spreading redness, or severe pain.
• Open skin around the nail that would be covered or irritated by product.
• Significant onycholysis where product would seal over separated areas.
• Unexplained discoloration that is new, changing, or accompanied by pain (advise medical evaluation).
• Severe bruising/trauma with tenderness or instability of the nail plate.

Modify service (proceed with caution) if you observe:

• Thin/overfiled nails: choose minimal refinement and a more protective base/overlay approach.
• Inflammation without infection signs: avoid aggressive cuticle work; keep product off skin; shorten service time.
• Dry, peeling nails: reduce abrasion; avoid harsh etching; support free edge with appropriate base.

Decision Points: Choosing Prep Intensity and Product Strategy

Use your assessment to decide two things: (1) how much surface refinement is safe and necessary, and (2) which adhesion approach is most appropriate (primer strategy and base system choice).

Prep intensity scale (concept)

• Light refinement: minimal surface disturbance; used for thin/overfiled, dry/peeling, or sensitive nails.
• Standard refinement: balanced approach for healthy nails with normal wear history.
• Targeted reinforcement: not “more filing everywhere,” but strategic support via base/structure choices for high-stress nails (thumbs, long lengths, flexible plates).

Primer strategy (concept)

• Minimal/spot priming: for thin, dry, or compromised nails to reduce irritation and brittleness risk.
• Full-plate priming (controlled): for oily plates or chronic cuticle/sidewall lifting, applied carefully to avoid skin contact.
• Alternative base systems: when the nail’s flexibility or surface condition suggests a different base (e.g., more flexible base for peeling/dry nails, more supportive base for very flexible thin nails).

Decision Table: Observations → Prep Adjustments and Product Choices