A simple routine works best when it matches two things: (1) how your hair and scalp behave, and (2) what your week actually looks like. This chapter helps you categorize your hair using practical traits you can observe at home, then connect those traits to lifestyle decision points so your routine stays realistic.
Hair Traits That Matter for a Simple Routine
Think of your “hair type” as a set of traits, not a single label. You can have fine strands with high density, or coarse strands with low density, and each combination needs different product amounts, wash frequency, and styling choices.
1) Strand thickness (fine / medium / coarse)
What it affects: how easily hair gets weighed down, how much product you need, and how well styles hold.
- Fine: individual hairs feel thin; hair can look flat easily; needs lighter products and smaller amounts.
- Medium: most common; tolerates a wide range of products.
- Coarse: individual hairs feel thick/wiry; often needs richer conditioning and more slip for detangling.
Quick check: Compare one shed strand to sewing thread. If it looks thinner than the thread, it’s likely fine; similar = medium; thicker = coarse. (If you can’t see it well, place it on white paper under bright light.)
Limitations: Hair that’s coated with heavy products can feel thicker than it is. Also, one head can have mixed thickness (e.g., finer at the hairline).
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2) Density (low / medium / high)
What it affects: how long wash day takes, how much product you use, and whether your scalp shows easily.
- Low density: scalp is easy to see when hair is dry and down; ponytail circumference is smaller.
- Medium density: scalp shows a bit when you part hair; average fullness.
- High density: scalp is hard to see; hair feels very full; wash day and drying often take longer.
Quick check (part test): In bright light, part hair down the middle and look at the width of the visible scalp line. A very wide part often suggests lower density; a very narrow part suggests higher density.
Limitations: Curl pattern and frizz can make hair look denser than it is. Very straight hair can look less dense even when density is medium.
3) Porosity (low / normal / high)
What it affects: how quickly hair wets, how it absorbs products, how fast it dries, and how easily it feels dry or “rough.”
- Low porosity: water beads on the surface; hair can take longer to get fully wet; product may sit on top; can feel “coated” easily.
- Normal porosity: wets and dries at a moderate pace; products absorb predictably.
- High porosity: wets quickly; can dry quickly; often needs more conditioning and sealing to reduce roughness and tangling.
Home test: spray/wet-out test (porosity clue)
Step-by-step:
- Start with clean hair (no heavy oils/butters) if possible.
- Choose a small section. Lightly mist with water from a spray bottle.
- Observe for 1–2 minutes: does water bead and sit, or does it soak in quickly?
Interpretation: Beading and slow wetting suggests lower porosity; quick absorption suggests higher porosity.
Limitations: Product buildup, hard water minerals, and humidity can change how water behaves on hair. This test gives a clue, not a diagnosis.
Home test: slip/absorption check (product behavior clue)
Step-by-step:
- After shampooing, apply a small amount of conditioner to one section.
- Notice whether it spreads easily and seems to “sink in,” or whether it sits on top and feels slippery but not absorbed.
Interpretation: Conditioner that seems to sit on top can suggest lower porosity or buildup; hair that seems to drink product quickly can suggest higher porosity.
Limitations: Different conditioners behave differently; silicones and oils can make hair feel slippery regardless of porosity.
4) Pattern (straight / wavy / curly / coily)
What it affects: detangling needs, frizz control, styling time, and how often you can refresh between washes.
- Straight: oils travel down the strand more easily; can look oily faster; often needs less heavy leave-in.
- Wavy: can be weighed down easily; benefits from balanced moisture and light hold.
- Curly: more prone to tangles and dryness feel; often benefits from more conditioning and defined styling steps.
- Coily: shrinkage and tangling can be higher; often benefits from gentle handling, more slip, and protective styling options.
Practical note: Pattern can vary across your head. Build your routine around the most “demanding” area (often the crown or nape) and adjust product amount elsewhere.
5) Scalp oiliness (dry / normal / oily)
What it affects: wash frequency, shampoo strength, and whether you need scalp-focused steps.
- Dry scalp tendency: tightness, flaking that looks dry/powdery, itch that improves with gentle cleansing and hydration.
- Normal: minimal itch/flakes; hair looks fresh for several days.
- Oily scalp tendency: roots look shiny/greasy quickly; hair clumps at the roots; may need more frequent cleansing or lighter root products.
Quick check (48-hour observation): After a normal wash, note how your scalp feels and how roots look at 24 and 48 hours. If roots look oily by 24 hours, you likely lean oily; if you feel tight/itchy and look dry by 24–48 hours, you may lean dry.
Limitations: Over-washing, under-washing, heavy styling products, and weather can temporarily change scalp behavior. Track for 2–3 weeks for a clearer pattern.
Two More “Useful Traits” (Optional but Practical)
Elasticity (how hair stretches and returns)
What it affects: how hair handles manipulation and whether it needs more conditioning or gentler styling.
Home test: elasticity stretch test
Step-by-step:
- Use a clean shed strand (not one you pull out).
- Lightly dampen it (dry hair can snap more easily).
- Hold both ends and stretch gently.
Interpretation: Hair that stretches a little and returns is a good sign. Hair that snaps immediately may be too dry or fragile. Hair that stretches a lot and doesn’t bounce back can indicate it’s overly soft/weak and needs a more balanced routine.
Limitations: One strand isn’t your whole head. Chemical treatments, heat styling, and even humidity can change results day to day.
Drying time (fast / medium / slow)
What it affects: whether you can air-dry, how often you’ll reach for heat, and how you schedule wash day.
Quick check: After washing, note how long it takes to feel 80–90% dry without heat. Very slow drying often correlates with high density and/or lower porosity.
Turn Traits Into Simple Decisions
Use the trait combinations below as decision points. You’re not trying to “fix” your hair type—you’re choosing the simplest steps that match it.
Product amount: start small, scale by density and strand thickness
- Fine + low/medium density: use pea- to dime-size amounts; focus conditioner mid-lengths to ends; avoid heavy butters at roots.
- Fine + high density: still use light products, but you may need more total quantity because there’s more hair.
- Coarse and/or high density: use larger amounts and prioritize slip (conditioner/leave-in) for detangling.
Wash frequency: start with scalp oiliness, then adjust for workouts and styling
- Oily scalp: plan more frequent cleansing (e.g., every 2–3 days) or lighter products at the roots.
- Dry/normal scalp: you may do well with less frequent shampoo (e.g., every 4–7 days), especially with curls/coils.
- Heavy styling products/protective styles: you may need periodic deeper cleansing to reset.
Conditioning intensity: guided by porosity feel and pattern
- Low porosity tendency: lighter layers, thorough rinsing, and occasional warmth (e.g., warm water during conditioning) can help product spread; avoid stacking too many heavy products.
- High porosity tendency: prioritize conditioner and leave-in; consider layering a cream then a light oil/serum on ends if they feel rough.
- Curly/coily patterns: detangle with conditioner and use a leave-in for manageability.
Lifestyle Constraints: Build Your Routine Around Your Week
Now add the real-world factors that often decide whether a routine is sustainable.
Workout frequency (sweat, friction, and wash schedule)
Decision points:
- Work out 4–7x/week: choose a routine that can handle frequent scalp cleansing without drying lengths. Options include alternating a gentle shampoo with a stronger one, or doing scalp-focused cleansing while keeping conditioner on the lengths.
- Work out 1–3x/week: you can often keep a standard wash schedule and use quick refresh methods between washes (water mist + small leave-in, or re-activate styling product).
Practical tip: If sweat is mainly at the scalp, concentrate shampoo on the scalp and let the suds rinse through the ends rather than scrubbing lengths.
Water hardness (mineral buildup changes feel)
Signs it may matter: hair feels coated, dull, or rough; products stop working as well; lather feels weak; scalp feels itchy despite washing.
Decision points:
- Hard water likely: consider a shower filter if feasible and schedule occasional “reset” washes with a clarifying/chelating shampoo (frequency depends on your hair and product use).
- Soft water: you may need less product and may find hair feels “too soft” or weighed down if you over-condition.
Practical check: Look up your city’s water hardness report or notice soap scum on fixtures—both can hint at hard water.
Swimming (chlorine/salt exposure)
Decision points:
- Swim weekly or more: plan a pre-swim rinse (hair absorbs clean water first), consider a swim cap, and schedule a post-swim cleanse and conditioner the same day.
- Occasional swimming: a thorough rinse and a good conditioning session afterward may be enough.
Practical step-by-step (simple swim protocol):
- Before: rinse hair with fresh water; apply a small amount of conditioner to lengths if your hair tolerates it.
- After: rinse immediately; shampoo scalp; condition lengths; detangle gently.
Heat styling (time-saving vs. added maintenance)
Decision points:
- Heat 3+ times/week: simplify by standardizing: one heat day, then maintain with low-manipulation styles. Use a heat protectant consistently and keep tools at the lowest effective temperature.
- Heat 0–2 times/week: you can lean on air-drying routines and use styling products that match your pattern (lighter for fine/wavy; richer for coarse/curly/coily).
Time reality check: If you don’t have time for careful sectioning and controlled passes, reduce heat frequency—rushed heat styling tends to create more problems than it solves.
Protective styles (braids, twists, buns, wigs)
Decision points:
- Wear protective styles often: build in scalp access (cleansing and drying), and plan a take-down day with detangling time.
- Occasional protective styles: treat them as a “low-manipulation week” and keep scalp comfortable with light, non-greasy products.
Practical tip: If your scalp gets oily or itchy in protective styles, prioritize scalp cleansing methods that don’t leave residue and ensure the scalp dries fully.
Time available (the biggest constraint)
Choose a routine tier that matches your schedule. You can always upgrade later.
| Time you can commit | Routine focus | What to avoid |
|---|---|---|
| 10–15 min on wash day | Cleanse + quick condition + simple style | Complex multi-step styling, long detangling sessions |
| 20–40 min on wash day | Add detangling, leave-in, basic hold product | Too many product layers |
| 60+ min on wash day | Add deep conditioning, more precise styling | Changing too many variables at once |
Put It Together: One-Page Routine Blueprint Template
Copy and fill in this template. Keep it simple: pick defaults you can repeat weekly, then adjust one variable at a time.
MY HAIR + LIFESTYLE SNAPSHOT (fill in)| Strand thickness | ☐ Fine ☐ Medium ☐ Coarse |
| Density | ☐ Low ☐ Medium ☐ High |
| Porosity (best guess) | ☐ Low ☐ Normal ☐ High ☐ Unsure |
| Pattern | ☐ Straight ☐ Wavy ☐ Curly ☐ Coily ☐ Mixed |
| Scalp oiliness | ☐ Dry ☐ Normal ☐ Oily ☐ Changes seasonally |
| Elasticity clue | ☐ Snaps easily ☐ Balanced ☐ Stretches too much |
| Drying time | ☐ Fast ☐ Medium ☐ Slow |
| Workouts | ___ days/week |
| Swimming | ☐ No ☐ Occasionally ☐ Weekly+ |
| Heat styling | ☐ Never ☐ 1–2x/week ☐ 3x+/week |
| Protective styles | ☐ Never ☐ Sometimes ☐ Often |
| Water | ☐ Hard ☐ Soft ☐ Unsure |
| Time available on wash day | ☐ 10–15 min ☐ 20–40 min ☐ 60+ min |
My default weekly schedule
| Wash days | e.g., ☐ Mon ☐ Wed ☐ Sat (circle) / Every ___ days |
| Workout refresh plan | e.g., rinse scalp only / quick shampoo / dry shampoo / water + leave-in |
| Swim plan (if needed) | Before: ________ After: ________ |
My core routine (keep to the essentials)
| 1) Cleanse | Type: ☐ Gentle shampoo ☐ Stronger/clarifying occasionally ☐ Co-wash (if it works for me) Frequency: every ___ days Focus area: ☐ scalp only ☐ scalp + lengths |
| 2) Condition | Type: ☐ Light conditioner ☐ Rich conditioner Where: ☐ mid-lengths to ends ☐ all over Detangle: ☐ in shower with conditioner ☐ after shower |
| 3) Leave-in / styling | Choose 1–2: ☐ Leave-in ☐ Cream ☐ Gel/mousse ☐ Oil/serum on ends Amount guide: ☐ very small ☐ moderate ☐ generous |
| 4) Drying method | ☐ Air-dry ☐ Diffuse ☐ Blow-dry ☐ Wrap/roll Time plan: ________ |
| 5) Between-wash maintenance | Refresh: ☐ water mist ☐ small leave-in ☐ re-activate gel ☐ braid/twist at night Night routine: ☐ satin/silk scarf/bonnet ☐ loose pineapple/ponytail ☐ protective style |
My “reset” triggers (so I don’t guess)
- If hair feels coated/dull: schedule a clarifying/chelating wash every ___ weeks (especially if hard water or heavy products).
- If scalp gets oily/itchy faster than usual: increase cleansing frequency for 1–2 weeks, reduce root products, reassess.
- If ends feel rough/tangle easily: increase conditioning/leave-in on ends, reduce friction styles, reassess after ___ washes.
My non-negotiables (keep routine sustainable)
- Max steps I will do on a busy day: ___ steps
- Max time I will spend on wash day: ___ minutes
- One style I can do quickly: ________
- One backup style for bad hair days: ________
